Carl H. Clark

A boat of the type and size to be described is a very convenient boat for rowing on a lake or on the salt water, and also makes a good tender for a yacht. The dimensions, 12' long by 4' wide, make a boat which, while easy to row, is yet wide enough to carry well and be very stiff.

The usual method of recording and transferring the lines of a boat or yacht is by a "Table of offsets" such as is here given, and the amateur boat builder should accustom himself to working from it, as it saves him the trouble and inaccuracy of scaling from the printed drawing. The figures given are taken by the designer from his original drawing and are, of course, more accurate than any which the builder could take from the 6mall printed plans. The water lines, or lines parallel with the base line, are 3" apart, while the cross sections are 3' apart. In Fig 3 it will be noted that the water lines cross all the mould lines and the distance on each water line from the contral line to its intersection with the mould line, is the offset given in the table. The figures along the top of the table correspond to the numbers of the moulds in Figs. 1 and 2. The two top lines marked "height of sheer," and "height of rabbet," give the height of the sheer and rabbet above the base line on each mould. The lines below give the half breadths of each mould on each water line before refeired to. For instance, to find the half breadth of mould No. 2 on waterline No. 3, the vertical column numbered 2 at the top, and the horizontal row headed No. 2, 3 at the side are each followed until they meet and the required offset, 2, 3 1/4" is found.

Fig. 4. Laying Down Table.

 Ht gunwale above base " rabbet " 12'-l " 2 l'-l0 1/2 " 3 l'-l0 3/8" -0 5/8" Stern2'- 0 5/8"9 " 1/2 breadth-gunwale l'-7 " 2'- 0 " l'-10 1/2" l'-4 1/2" " " W. L. 6 l'-6 5/8" 2'- 0 " l'-l0 1/2" l'-4 3/8" " " " " 5 l'-6 1/8" l'-ll 7/8" l'-l0 1/8" l'-2f" " " " " 4 l'-5 1/4" l'-ll 3/3" 1' - 9 1/2" 9f" " " " " 3 l'-8 5/8" l'-l0 3/8" 1'- 8i" 4" " " " ;; 2 l'-0 7/8" 1'- 8 1/8" 1'- 5|" " " " " 1 -8i" 1' 2 7/8" 10 1/8"

The shapes of the moulds should be laid off first, each on a separate sheet of thick paper. A centre line is drawn, and also the correct number of water lines 3 ' apart at right angles to it. The proper offsets are then read from the tables and set out on the water lines, being laid off on both sides of the centre line to obtain the complete outline of the mould. At the foot it is made the same width as the keel, 1 3/4", and the upper end is laid according to the height from the line headed "height of sheer," and of the breadth given in the line headed "breadth of sheer." Through the points thus obtained, a smooth curve is drawn with a limber batten. It may not be possible to make the line pass exactly through all the points, an error of 1/8,' or so being allowable, but it should be a fair average of all the points and must, in any case, be fair and smooth. The curve thus obtained is the shape of the boat to the outside of the planking, but since the mould fits inside of the plank a new curve must be drawn inside of that just drawn and distant from it an amount equal to the thickness of the plank, in this case \$" This new outline must also be 1 3/4" wide across the foot, and is the shape to which the mould is made. The moulds are made as in Fig. 5. of rough pine or spruce, but well braced and strong. The centre line is marked across, as shown, for use in setting up. The stern is worked out of a piece of oak or mahogany 1" thick. The shape shown being that of the after face, the edges must be left with a considerable amount of bevel which is later trimmed down so that the plank will lay on evenly. The outline on the stern board should be cut only as high as the gunwale line, and above that the board should be allowed to extend out over the plank.