The rudder is 1 1/2" thick at the stock and tapers towards the after end. The several pieces run parallel with the stock, and are bored with \" holes to match those in the stock. Galvanized iron rods are then driven through and the whole set up tightly; washers are put on the outer ends of the rods, and both ends of the latter riveted, drawing the whole tightly together. A slot is cut to allow a strap 3-16" x 1 1/4" to be passed around the stock; the rudder is put in place, and this strap inserted and fastened to the deadwood with screws. It holds the rudder and deadwood together. A piece of flat galvanized iron is also fastened on the bottom of the keel under the heel of the stock to support it and prevent grass or ropes catching between. The tiller is of oak and has a plate on each side extending back past the rudder head. Holes are drilled to match the one in the rudder head and a bolt passed through.

The centreboard is built up of narrow boards held together with 1/2" galvanized iron rods. The after side must be shaped on a circle, with the pin at the forward end as a centre. The board may be about 2" shorter than the box to give some clearance. The lowest board should be of oak and the others of hard pine. The rods should be about 8" apart. It will hardly be possible to run each one all the way through, but they should be as long as possible, and where one stops the next one should overlap it to preserve the strength. It will add to the strength and appearance of the board if it is shod with 1 1/4" half round galvanized iron; if this is not done, a piece of lead weighing about 20 lbs. should be set into the lower corner to 6ink the board. The hole for the pin at the forward end ought to be lined with metal to avoid wear; a rowlock socket set in flush with the surface will answer excellently. The hole in the box sides to take the pins must be bored in about the position shown in Fig. 13. The board is put in from below and the bolt passed through the two 6ides and the centreboard. Under the head of the bolt and under the washer on the opposite end a piece of rubber packing should be placed to keep out the water. A rope is attached to the after corner of the centreboard to lower it and haul it up. The board should be placed in its highest position and a hole bored just above the top of the centreboard casing, through which a pin may be inserted to hold the board up when not in use.

The planking and deck should now be planed and finished. As little should be taken off as possible. A smoothing plane, set fine, should be used, and the planks should be planed until they are perfectly fair and smooth. The corner at the bilge should be slightly rounded and also the corner of the covering board should have the sharp edge taken off, otherwise it will be apt to chip out. The planking and decks (if bright) should next be calked with cotton. Cotton for this purpose comes in balls already prepared. It is forced into the seams with a "calking iron " a sort of flat chisel shaped tool. The seam is first coated with paint. A thread of the cotton then started in the seam and forced in by hammering the "iron" with a mallet, gradually moving along the seam and working in a small loop of the cotton at short intervals, the size of the loops and their frequency being governed by the size of the 6eam. It is advised that the amateur, if possible, visit some place where he can see this done, as more can be learned that way than by a large amount of description. Calking is a rather particular piece of work, and care must be used not to force the calking too tightly, as there is some ri6k of loosening the plank. The edges of the plank may be raised somewhat by calking; if so, a light shaving may be taken off. The whole surface of the plank may now be thoroughly sandpapered;' the seams filled with putty and given a coat of paint. The deck, if canvassed, and also the housetop, is painted at the same time. If the deck is laid in strips it may be puttied and painted if desired, but the neatest way is to fill the seams with marine glue and varnish it. This marine glue is a preparation somewhat like tar, and requires to be melted and run into the seams with a ladle. It is allowed to harden and the surplus scraped or planed off. The whole surface is then given a coat of shellac and two coats of good varnish.

It will be necessary to strike in the waterline, the easiest way of doing which is as follows: - at the re-required height forward and aft a horizontal straight edge is fastened. The boat being on an even keel, one person sights across the two straight edges and a second places a pencil on the boat in such a position as to be in line with the two edges when sighted by the first. In this way, a series of points are obtained through which a curve is drawn with a batten. It is advised that the waterline be struck about 2" higher than that in the design, as it is advisable to have it show a little, and it also prevents the side paint fowling as quickly. The outside should have a final coat of paint, and the bottom be covered with some form of anti-fowling or copper paint, the latter being put on after the topside paint.

The remainder of the bright work, cabin trunk, coaming, slide, doors, etc., should now be given a coat of shellac and two coats of varnish. All varnished work should be first coated with shellac, as it fills the grain and makes a better surface. The after bulk-head may be varnished if desired, but it is advised that the standing room floor and seats be painted as it wears better. The hole for the mast is about 5" diameter. Before cutting the mortise in the step the boat should be placed with the waterline level, a plumb-line is dropped from the centre of the mast, thus locating the centre of the mast on the step. The mortise is about 4" long and 1 1/2" wide. For ballast, iron is probably the most available material, although small stones in canvas bags may be used if necessary. It is put in place after the boat is afloat and ready for final trimming, and in the position to bring her to trim.