Carl H. Clark
After the deck is laid and trimmed off, the top of the 6tern board should also be trimned 3-4" above the level of the deck, and to the same curve. The stem is cut off and shaped as shown in Fig. 2 with a 3-4" hole bored to take a rope if desired. The face of the stem has been preferably left 3-4" wide, and a piece of 3-4" flat or half round galvanized iron or brass strip is bent around and fastened into place with screws. At the top it is carried up and around the curve, and the lower end extends a foot or so along the bottom.
The washboard L, Figs. 2 and 3, is of oak, about 6" wide and 1-2" thick. The stock for this should not be very dry, as it must be quite limber to bend sharply enough. It should be in two pieces, joined on the sides. A steam box, as before described, may be necessary for this purpose, as it must be thoroughly steamed. When bent into place it is fastened with screws. Before boring for the screws, a centrebore should be made about 1-4" deep, and slightly larger than the head of the screw, so that the latter may lie below the surface. The counterbore is then filled with a plug or •'bung" cut for this purpose across the grain, that it may be planed off smooth. These plugs are obtainable from any dealer in boat supplies in even sizes. They are set in lead paint and then trimmed down to the surface of the board.
The two parts of the washboard are to be joined by a piece about 8" long put on the outside, the ends of the two parts being screwed to it. A rowlock socket is afterwards fitted on the top of the joint, to enable the use of oars when desired.
It is desirable that the deck should be covered with canvas, as it makes smoother work, and is easier to keep in good condition. Canvas for this purpose should be about 8 oz. weight, in one width if possible, or it may be in two widths, lapped in the centre. It is cut about to the shape of the deck and washboard, leaving some for trimming. The deck is smeared with lead or thick paint, and the canvas laid on, drawn tight against the washboard and over the edge of the deck and tacked. A piece of about 3-8" quarter round moulding is then fitted in the corner between the washboard and deck and the canvas trimned off at its upper edge. This makes a good water tight joint. The outer edge is covered with a half round moulding about 1 1-4" wide, which should be left bright and later varnished. Arourd the stem and across the stern the edge of the canvas is turned under and neatly tacked.
The skeg O, P, Fig. 2, is of hard wood 3 1-2" thick, shaped as shown, the after edge of P is to be square with the line of the shaft. They are joined together diagonally as shown and nailed. The size of the skeg as shown, is sufficient for ordinary work, but for some uses it may be desirable to increase its size. If this is desired, the length may be increased, but should not be longer than half the length of the bottom. It is fastened to the bottom with 3-8" rivets.
The flooring is laid directly upon the moulds and is 3-4" thick; on the top of the cleats already in place between the moulds a strip is nailed to support the flooring between the moulds. It will be best to fit it now but not fasten it in place until the engine is installed. The middle board should be left loose to allow access to the space underneath. It will be well to fit a narrow piece at the outer edges of the floor extending diagonally down to the planking to keep articles from rolling down under the floor.
Seats are to be fitted as shown in Figs. 1, 2, 3, about 15" above the floor. They are supported on short braces fastened to the moulds and an upright under the outer end. The seats may be notched around the moulds and extend out to the plank, or they may run along on the inside of the moulds with a narrow strip along the back to prevent articles from rolling behind.
The space under the seats may be left open, in which case turned uprights should be used under the seats, or if desired, sheathing may be carried as shown in Fig 3, and doors fitted to give access; this gives valuable storage space. Before fitting the bulkhead forward, the fuel tank is to be put into place.
If a complete outfit is purchased the fuel tank is a part of it, and all that is necessary is to fasten it into place. If however, it should be necessary to have a tank made, it should beabout 10 or 12 gallons capacity, and of copper or galvanized iron, riveted and soldered; too much care cannot be taken to make this tank absolutely tight, as any leak will cause great danger to boat and occupants. A round tank is most easily made, and one 12" diameter and 20" long will hold about 10 gallons. The tank must be kept as high as possible, and if greater capacity is desired, a flat tank should be used.
The dimensions of the latter can be taken from the boat. It is suggested however, that a tank 18" long, 24" across the after end, 12" across the forward end and 8" deep will be of about the proper size. It should be arranged to fit closely up under the deck and the filling pipe should be arranged to extend up to the deck so as to leave no open space, and should have a screw cap with a small hole in it.
The opening in the deck can be covered with a brass cap of some sort. The outlet from the tank should be a plug cock with a union on it and should be strongly soldered to the tank. When the tank has been fitted into place it is supported by cross braces and must be blocked so as to prevent it from shifting as the boat rolls. It has been suggested to the writer that, since leakage of gasoline is such a dangerous matter it would be well to line the space under the tank with lead or zinc, or make a tray which would fit under the tank, and thus catch any possible drippings and prevent its running aft to the motor, where it might become ignited. The arrangement just outlined for the interior is merely suggestive, and any other desired arrangement may be carried out equally well.