FRANCIS L. BAIN.

Having given proper consideration to the extensively used glue or butt joint, we will next give our attention to the splined or keyed joint; also the matched or groove and tongue joint. Of the two named the splined is more desirable, everything considered, particularly because there is no unnecessary waste of material, as with the groove and tongue. For example, suppose it is desired to join several pieces of some valuable wood together with as little waste as possible and it is necessary that each piece (only 3 1/4 in. wide in the rough) shall finish 3 in. wide when glued up. By referring to the illustration it can be seen that A (the splined) could easily be made to conform to the specified measurements, while B (the groove and tongue) would need so much more extra width from which to form the tongue on one edge, that it would be impossible to joint up the stock properly and tongue it and retain the specified width. Aside from the reason just given, it is a well known fact among cabinet-makers and woodworkers in general, that a tongue or spline formed of a separate piece of wood is much stronger than a tongue formed on the edge of one of the pieces to be joined together.

The relative value of these joints being apparent, we will take up the construction of the splined joint, first calling attention to one rule which always governs the making of a splined mortise and tenon, or groove and tongued joint, namely : - The key, spline, tenon or tongue, as the case may be, should always be just one-third of the thickness of the stock of which it forms a part. Hence, having prepared the various pieces exactly as if making a butt joint, a groove should be made in all joint edges which shall be twice as deep as it is wide, then the outer corners of each groove should be rebated or lightly planed off, as illustrated at C, to allow an easier entrance for the spline and to preclude any possibility of an imperfect joint from raised edges. Then the splines should be carefully planed up, preferably from a harder wood, so they will just fit in the groove snugly, without any looseness or play. When properly fitted apply a thorough coating of

A- Showing" 3 exposure after jointing and grooving stock only 31/4 wide in the rough.

B)Showing impassibility of obaining 3 "exposure under same conditions as above.

C-3Splined joint rebating.atx.

D'Matched joint masking at a.

thin glue to both grooves, also to the joint edges, then fit the spline carefully into one groove, place the piece of stock in a vise, spline uppermost, and placing the second piece of stock over the spline, groove downward, carefully face the pieces together, applying cabinet-makers' clamps after the united pieces have been properly aligned. When making this, as well as other joints, be careful to avoid the mistake so common to a great many workmen, sandpapering surfaces which are to be glued together, as satisfactory results are never accomplished in this way.

The groove and tongue joint are made similar, in some ways, to the splined joint. A plow plane is used for grooving the board for the latter, while matching planes should be used for the former. After the matching has been properly done a bead is often moulded on the face side of the stock, just behind the tongue, to mask the joint, as shown at D. The glueing process is practically the same as with the splined joint, except that the tongue is fixed instead of moveable. If very many pieces of stock are to be joined together by either method, it is advisable to cleat across one side or the other in order to prevent buckling of the various pieces, which is sure to occur if they are subject to any weight or pres-sure, unless they are properly backed up or se-cured in some other way.