M. T. Browne

The wall, or camping tent, possesses many advan-vantages over the tent known as the A tent, inasmuch as the sides can be lifted in pleasant weather to allow a cross current of air through the tent, and yet can be quickly dropped and secured from the inside should storm arise. The size here described, 9 x 12 feet, will afford sleeping room for five persons, using single cot-beds.

The material used should not be lighter than 8-oz. duck; 12-oz. will be found best if extended camping is intended. Drilling is sometimes used, but the difference in the cost is not great enough to make it worth while to sacrifice the greater rain-resisting quality possessed by the duck, as well as the greater durability. If the tent is wanted only as a shelter for children, the lighter material will answer. The width of either duck or drilling is 29 or 30 in., the lap of the seams being varied from 1/2 in. to 1 in. depending on which width is used. About 60 yards will be needed.

There are five breadths in the sides and roof, each 8 yards long. These are cut and double stitched with a lap seam. For the ends cut four lengths 12 ft. 3 in. long. Sew two together with double stitched lap seams. Lay flat upon the floor and make a mark on one edge 3 ft. 1 1/2 in. from the end; on the opposite edge 9 ft. 1 1/2 in. from the same end, and with a straight edge or blue chalk line, connect the two points. A temporary chalk line can easily be made by chalking a piece of strong twine. Cut along this line, and by placing the long edges together one complete end is obtained. Repeating the operation will give the other end, the width being several inches greater than is required for the back.

The counter seam of the back is made the same as with the others, the extra width being cut off that the short edges leaving enough for a 1-in. lap seam with sides and top, which should also be double stitched. Before stitching the ends to the sides and top, however, measure the latter, and where the sides and roof meet the cloth is folded on itself, making what might be termed a pleat 2 in. wide and double stitched, with the stitching quite close together. This is done on each side, forming a lap in which are worked the holes for the guy-ropes. These holes are located one at each seam and the corners, but are not made until all stitching is completed.

The center seam of the front end is sewed at the top for only 1 ft. and allowing an inch on the outer edges for the seams there, the rest of the spare width is used for a lap for the entrance, so that when closed one side will close over the other from 6 to 8 in. Pieces of strong tape 9 in. long, are sewed to either side of the entrance on the inside, and used to tie them together. The front is then sewed to the sides and top, the lap of the latter being on the outside at both ends.

A hem is then made around the bottom about 1 1/2 in. wide and strongly stitched. Holes for tie ropes are also worked in this hem at each corner, one in the center of each side; one in the center of the back, and one in each corner of the entrance breadths. The preferable way to work these holes is to use galvanized iron rings, which are made for this purpose, and which any hardware dealer can order from wholesale houses.

The cloth is cut out to fit over the inside of the ring and then with a small sail needle and strong cotton twine the ring is over-sewed in place. Made in this way the holes will never rip under any strain likely to be given them. They are frequently made without the rings and, if care is used to have close sewing, will be quite durable.

The poles are made after the tent is completed so that the lengths may be correct. Pole irons can be obtained of most hardware dealers and include two ferules with holes for the ridge pole, two rods for driving into the ends of the upright poles, and two ferules without holes for the latter. Spruce is the best wood to use for poles, being light and strong, hut it may be necessary to round them by hand from square stock. They should be at least 2 in. in diameter and free from knots. Oak poles are stronger, but heavy, and weight is an object if long distances in the woods are to be attempted, The upright posts should be 9 ft. 4 in. long, or long enough to be sunk several inches into the ground without having the bottom of the tent more than just touch.

After the posts are made, the places where the iron rods in the upright posts pass through the ridge pole should be marked on the tent and pieces of cloth 6 in. square stitched on the inside. A hole is then cut and oversewed, to permit the rods to pass through, which they should for at least 1 in. No ring is used in these holes. The projecting rods are used to hold the ends of ropes, which in windy weather are sometimes needed to hold the tent from blowing over, especially when camping on sandy soil.

For a smaller tent 7 X 9 1/2 ft. and 7t. high, with 3 ft. walls, about 34 yards of cloth would be needed. There would be four breadths in the sides 17 ft. long. and the ends would take three breadths at the back and two whole and two half breadths at the front.