When possible, it is always best to have the sail made by an experienced sail maker. However, some amateurs have turned out very creditable sails. The sail is stitched on a sewing machine with coarse linen thread. The sail for the lark should be single bighted, that is, a fold is taken in the middle of each breadth so as to form a hem or seam one inch wide. This seam is stitched on both edges. A small hem is stitched around the outer edge of the sail through which is run a 1/4 in. piece of cotton rope. This rope ends with a knot at the after end of the boom so that the slack in it may, from time to time, be taken up. If sail is roped on the outside no hem is used, the rope being sewed directly to the edge of sail with palm and needle. When roped in this way use 1/4 in. bolt rope, and starting one foot from the bottom on the after edge, work round to a point one foot from the top of the after edge. " This will leave the most of the leach or after edge without bolt rope. This edge is simply hemmed between the ends of the bolt rope. One set of reef points is worked in 3 1/2 ft. above the bottom edge. These points are pieces of 1/4 in. cotton rope. One reef point is put in each seam, excepting the outer edges.

For the reef points, work a hole (same as button hole) and, cutting off the cotton in four foot lengths, seize the ends with twine and sew the middle in the hole worked in seams. The sail is reinforced at the four corners with a patch, as shown in Fig 10.

Work holes in each corner of the sail, also along the lower edge, every six inches, to lace it to the gaff holes along the forward edge (throat) every eighteen inches, to tie it to the mast hoops.

To Bend On The Sail

Fasten the four corners of the sail to the boom and gaff, by splicing one end of a piece of the cotton rope into the corner holes of the sail and then lacing it with a couple of turns through the holes on boom and gaff. The corners at the forward end, or throat, are laced down tight to the jaws of the boom and gaff. Do not stretch the sail, as the slack had best be taken up after the sail has been used. Lace the sail to the boom and gaff by simply running a piece of the cotton line around and around these pieces, the lacing being put through one of the holes in the sail, at each turn.

Running Gear

Staple a single block on each side of the spar, as shown in Fig. 11. Fasten a single block with a short bridle of manila line to the gaff for the peak halyard. Fasten a single block directly to the jaws of the gaff with a short piece of marline. Hook a single block with becket to each of the eye-bolts in the spar. Splice the end of the peak halyard into the becket of the upper block on the spar and then reeve it through the block that is bridled to the gaff, then reeve back through the upper block on spar and on down through the block on deck, from which it leads aft through a hole in the forward side of coaming to a cleat that is fastened to the after end of the center-board box. Splice the end of the throat halyard into the becket of the lower block on the spar, then reeve it through the block at the jaws of the gaff back through the block to which it is spliced, and down to the deck block on opposite side from peak halyard, thence back through hole in coaming to a cleat on after end of the center-board box.


The in-board block of the sheet is fastened to a ring on a traveler which is fastened to the deck, half way between the rudderpost and the stern, as shown in Fig. 10. The traveler is 18 in. long and is made of 3/8 in. iron and may be fitted with plates to screw to the deck or bolt through the deck, as shown in Fig. 12. Hook a block with becket to traveler ring and seize a block to the boom at a point that will be just over the traveler when the boom is amidships. Splice the end of the sheet into a becket of the block on the traveler from which it will lead forward to a cleat on deck just aft of the coaming. The ends of all lines should be whipped to prevent their unlaying. To whip a loose end, wind it with twine, sewing the twine through and around the windings with a coarse needle. "When sailing, you will need a short stick to push the centerboard down. No seats are used in a Lark. Instead, a cushion is used on the floor of the cockpit. All the blocks should be moused to prevent their unhooking. Mousing means to tie a turn of marline from the top to the shank of the hook.

Canvas Covered Planking

Built in this way, no calking is necessary and, instead of using 5/8 in. planking, 1/4 or 3/8 in. is used. We advise the 1/4 in. It will take the same number of surface feet and the plank is put on in the same way, excepting that 1 1/8 in. clout nails would be used for a 1/4 in. plank and 1 1/4 in. clout nails for a 3/8 in. plank. To cover the plank with canvas will require 8 yds. of 14 1/2 oz. duck 30 inches wide, and 6 pounds of marine glue. After being planked the bottom is sand papered smooth, the nails heads being only set flush. Fill any crevices with putty and then apply the glue. The marine glue, when cold, is hard, having about the consistency of molasses candy. To apply it, it must be heated and put on hot, and even then it will be found too stiff to spread nicely and will simply have to be daubed on as evenly as possible. An ordinary whisk broom, cut off short so as to be stiff, makes a good brush with which to apply it. After the glue is on it will immediately harden. Then spread over the canvas, putting this on one breadth at a time and having it run crosswise at right angles to back-bone. Secure each breadth in place with a few tacks and, commencing in the middle of the breadth, iron it out with a hot flat iron, keeping the iron just hot enough not to burn the canvas. This will cause the glue to melt and join firmly to the canvas. Let the edges of each breadth lap the adjoining one for 1/2 in. and let the canvas come over the edge of the boat and lap 1 in. on to the sides and ends. This edge is closely tacked with 2 oz. tacks, as is also the edge around the center-board slot. A double row of tacks is put in the lap at each seam.