At the after end the covering boards are cut with a mitre joint, and a piece of similar size is fitted across the stern, joining both covering boards. To support this cross piece, short pieces are nailed to the inside of the stern board. A board about 4 in. wide is also fastened to the under side of the boat and projecting 1 in. beyond the edge of the after covering board; this latter is to support the ends of the deck plank.

The deck plank should be preferably of white pine, as this wood makes a very fine deck, but almost any other kind may be used if the above is not obtainable Whatever stock is used should be clean and straight grained, and if possible the two lengths which are laid alongside the cabin and standing room should be in a single length. The stock should be 7/8 in. thick and in about 2 in. widths, so as to bend easily. In laying, the several planks are bent around inside the covering board, one after the other. An oak board 5 in. wide should be fitted lengthwise in the middle of the forward deck, running from the forward end of the cabin trunk to the stem and being fitted nicely to the stem and covering boards. It is fastened to the deck beams with counterbored fastenings. A similar board 4 1/2 in. wide is fastened in the middle of the after deck and neatly fitted to the after covering board. As will be seen, there are only two plank, one on each side, which run the whole length, the remainder being short. The forward end of these plank are fitted to bear against the middle plank, and are bent around inside of the covering board and the after end fitted to the after covering board ; they are fastened to beams and clamps with counterbored fastenings. The upper corners of each plank should be slightly beveled before being laid, so that the seam will be slightly open to admit the insertion of the calking. The single deck plank should be found to have its inner edge just even with the inner edge of the main clamp. If for any reason this does not occur, another plank may be laid the whole length and trimmed out to come even with the clamp. The remaining planks are all short lengths and are fitted very quickly ; the ends are all fitted against the middle plank.

It may be found necessary to fasten some short pieces to the under side of the middle plank between the beams, and projecting. over beyond the line of the cabin and standing room and the ends trimmed off later to the correct curve. All fastenings in the deck must, of course, be counterbored foraud the holes filled with bungs, in the same manner as before described. If necessary, the deck should be smoothed somewhat at this time, leaving the final smoothing, however, until the last. The deck must also be calked with cotton and the seams either filled with putty or marine glue ; the latter is preferred as it is elastic and perfectly water proof. It is poured into the seams in a melted condition, but full directions can be obtained where the glue is purchased so will not be given here. If one is less particular as to the appearance and finish of the boat, the covering boards, instead of being carried to the stem may be allowed to run off straight after being bent to the curvature of the house sides, and the whole of the decks between them filled with a few wide boards ; this is strong enough, but is not really to be recommended, as the time saved is not worth the difference in appearance. The ends of the deck plank are now to be trimmed out to the curve of the trunk and standing room ends.

The cabin trunk is next to be bent into place. For this purpose a 3/4 in. oak plank 15 In. wide and about 17 feet long will be required. Before bending it to shape the outline of the lower edge must be gotten ; to do this a thin board 8 or 10 in. wide is used, being bent around in the position which the covering will occupy. A line is scribed on the board even with the deck, the board is then removed and trimmed down to this line, and when laid on the oak plank will give the outline of the lower edge of the coaming. The latter is then cut to fit the pattern. The coaming will require very thorough steaming in order to render it sufficiently limber ; the stock also should not be too dry, as in this case it is likely to break during bending. It is better to use a rather green piece of stock and allow it to season in place. The plank is well steamed and carefully bent around into place, using clamps to draw it into the sharp bends. It must be held firmly by plenty of clamps, and fastened in place by heavy screws before it is thoroughly cold. A brace should be fastened across the after end to prevent the sides from springing out. When properly fitted it should slope slightly inwards all around. It must be allowed to thoroughly dry be-fore being disturbed further.

The coaming should now be cut off about 1 ft. back from the position of the bulkhead. The top of the coaming also, is trimmed down to the correct outline and should stand about 2 in. above the deck at the center forward.

The standing-room coaming will probably need to be in three pieces with the joints about on number 6 mould. The oak plank for this coaming will need to be 9 or 10 in. wide and 5/8 in. thick. The after curved piece is first bent into Shape, as described, for the r unk. The projecting ends of the trunk coaming are trimmed on the inside down to the thickness of the coaming ; this allows the standing-room coaming to be joined to it and make an even thickness. The two side pieces of the coaming are next to be fitted ; they are butted against the after piece and joined by a butt block about 10 in. long on the outside, fastened with screws. They are joined to the trunk coaming by halving each and fastening with rivets. After it is all fitted it is to be trimmed down to a height of 3 in. above deck, and at the forward end the curve is worked as shown at the after end of the trunk. The top edge of the coaming is rounded off neatly all around.

The beams of the cabin trunk are of oak 3/4 in. thick by 1 1/2 in. wide, and are cut to a crown of about 5 in. in the length of 5 ft. They should be smoothly planed and the lower edges beaded. Starting with the inside of the after bulkhead, the beams are spaced 9 in. apart, center to center ; they are dovetailed into the trunk, care being taken that the dovetail does not cut through to the outside of the trunk. The beams are then inserted from above and the top edge of the trunk beveled to the proper angle of the beams. The top of the house is of 3/4 in. tongued and grooved pine and is laid with the beaded side below. It is laid fore and aft, starting at the middle and working towards the edges nailing to the frames and trunk sides. It is trimmed off around the outer edge of the coaming but across the after edge it is left long and trimmed off later.

The after bulkhead is next to be fitted on the after side of the last roof beam. This bulkhead is of 3/4 in. stock, matched. It has been figured that the lower edge of this bulkhead would come so that it can be nailed directly to frame, but if this can not be done cleats can be fastened to the inside of the plank. The bulkhead runs to the side of the boat and should be made as strong as possible, as it is a valuable brace to the boat. A door 2 feet or so in width is left in the center. The after edge of the house top may now be trimmed off even with the face of the bulkhead.