CARL H. CLARK

If the moulds have not been already removed it may now be done, and any nail holes where fastenings have been put in, should be carefully plugged, using a small wooden plug, if necessary.

The tops of the frames, except three at each end, are now cut off even with the upper edge of the top streak. The clamps are 3 1/2 in. wide by 2 in. deep, of hard pine, and are laid with their 2 in, side on the frames, as shown in the cross section. In order that they may bend more easily they may be tapered off towards each end to 2 1/2 in.; if this 1/2 in. is taken off the outside edge it will aid in giving the clamp a small amount of original curvature. The whole outer edge should also be beveled so that when the clamp is in place it will have a slight slope, so as to match the crown of the deck at the ends. As will be noted, the main clamp extends only the length of the cabin trunk, and at the ends other additional short clamps are fitted. The main clamps extend from the third frame from the bow to the second frame from the stern, as shown in the general drawing. It may even, to good advantage, extend to the second frame, as this will allow the fastening of the end. The clamps may be bent into place when cold, as the curvature is slight, but before bending them in, a double turn of rope with a stick to twist it up should be passed over the tops of the frames at the ends of the clamps to prevent the bulging of the sides of the boat at these joints, owing to the pressure when clamp is bent into place, and at any signs of bulging it may be brought back to shape by revolving the stick, thus twisting the rope and drawing the ends together.

When the clamp is in place it is fastened with rivets driven through the tops of the frames and the top streak. Before fastening, care must be taken that the clamp bears evenly on all the frames, and any which are thicker than the others should be trimmed down; this is necessary, as the clamp, being heavier than the side of the boat will draw the latter to it, and if the frames did not all bear evenly some would be drawn in more than others and the side of the deck would be irregular. The short clamps at the ends are also of hard pine, 1 1/4 in. thick and 3 1/2 in. wide, tapering to 3 in. at the extreme ends. They are bent around flatwise 2 in. below the top of the top streak and, as will be seen, they will just pass under the main clamp, which they should be allowed to do, and extend at least a frame space beyond the end of the main clamp. This avoids a break in the structure of the boat and preserves the strength.

These short clamps are fastened in the same manner as the main clamps, and at the extreme ends, where there are no frames, pieces of board of the same thickness as the frames are placed under the clamps and fastened through. At the bow a knee, or a triangular piece of board, should be fitted between the clamps and well fastened. After the clamps are all fastened the ropes may be removed and the tops of the remaining frames cut off. A few braces should, however, be fastened.across the boat to prevent any change of form, as there may be a tendency to spread amidships, and it must not be allowed.

In each bilge a stringer is to be fitted. It is of hard pine, 1 in. thick and 4 in. wide amidships, tapering to 3 in. at the ends. These stringers are bent around in such a manner as to lie flat on the frames and are held in place by shores to the beam above. They are held by fastening to the frames with nails or screws, and should be fastened at each edge to every frame.

Before going farther, the hole for the rudder post tube would best be bored, as it is more accessible now than after the deck is fitted. This tube is a piece of 1 in. standard iron pipe, galvanized and threaded for a length of about 8 inches. The hole is bored of the size of the bottom of the thread, and care must be used that it is exactly plumb and fair with the stern-post. No harm will be done if the hole passes through the stern knee, as shown. If the hole, as first bored, does not come exactly fair and in line with the stern-post, it may be trimmed out somewhat with a gouge. In any case, when the rudder post is in place it must be in line with the stern-post when viewed from aft. The tube may now be smeared with white lead and screwed down into place with a pipe wrench. It should be turned down until it projects below the fantail an inch or more.

The deck beams are preferably of oak and sawed to shape out of a 1 1/2 in plank - they are 2 deep and are cut to such a curvature that the longest beams have a camber of about. 3 in. in their length. They should, of course, be planed all over, and their upper edges especially should be an even fair curve, so that the deck plank will lie evenly. The beams are fitted on the top of the clamps and just aft of the frames, and are fastened to both clamps and frames with screws or rivets. Care must be taken to see that the upper faces of the frames are in the same line so that the deck plank will lie fair and even.

In order that the coamings of cabin and standing-room may fit neatly, curved pieces are worked into the corners between the clamps and the beams, as shown in the deck plan ; they are of oak and are fastened to both clamps and beams. The next step will be to lay the deck. A covering board of oak is first to be bent around the outer edge of the deck to add strength and form a finish. It is 7/8 in. thick, 3 in. wide amidships, and 2f in. wide at the ends. The projecting top of the stern is trimmed up square, and the end of the covering board neatly fitted to it. The clamp, beams and upper edge of the top streak are to be joined and smoothed down to an even surface so that the covering board will lie evenly.

In bending the covering board into place it may, perhaps, be well to steam the forward end where the curvature is greatest. When bent around it should be held in place with clamps until fastened. Just aft of the stem head a short beam should be fitted on top of the beam already fitted, as otherwise there will be nothing to support the ends of the deck plank. The covering board is held in place by nails driven into the edge of the top streak, the beams and the main clamps. Especial care must be taken with the joint between the covering board and the top streak, as this joint is very plainly in view and must be tight.