Paul D. Otter

Very little information need be given for this table, Fig 2, in the simple style. The plain posts and under framing are laid out on a drawing in a square of 21 x40 in. having the posts center along two intersecting diagonal lines, the open or top rails being mortised into the posts about 4 in. under the edge of the top. All edges should be chamfered 3-16 in. and just above the taper of the posts treated to a saw kerfed line, also chamfered to give finish. The top should be careful y matched from 1 5-16 in. lumber. Allow for the height of the table 30 in. to the top either with or without casters. The weathered oak finish is undoubtedly best for this much used piece of furniture.

The couch should not be a difficult frame to construct. Indeed, after the inspection of the factory made article, the craftsman may, with a little practice with pencil and paper, lay out from observation a frame which will have a pleasing, substantial outline yet have the joints all cut square. With this thought Fig. 3 is presented with the necessary measuring memoranda given thereon. The frame is within a size of 27x73 in., making it ample in length for a "six footer, " or generous enough for an overflow accommodation in the event of a surprise party. The head posts terminate in a claw foot, the main rails and foot rail are made of not less than 1 in. boards.

The shape given for head posts will come from a board 7 1/2 in. wide. From a previously drawn detail showing the continuous character of line in its constructed form procure the separate marking out patterns, and right here be mindful that with the cut out paper pattern allow in the wood, in case of the line arching from claw post joint to the horizontal rail, an excess of stock which, when the parts are glued up, may be sawed or shaved to the correct free arching line. The union of parts in this way creates one of the pleasing features to attract the eye, and the eye following this line in fancy terminates in a foliated scroll as suggested, and the turn is met by a like but less forceful line springing from the foot post. In like manner, the inclination of head rest mold may have its abruptness folded up in a similar termination. The couch frame, of course, is to have the same treatment on the other side, for a one-side couch gives but one-half the number of positions in which it may be placed.

A little consultation with the wife will often save a man doing some foolish things, even as to furniture for the housewife tires of seeing her possessions always at the same angle or on the same side of the room. The fullness of the clawfoot is made by gluing on a 2-in. block, the upper portion of which will, by sawing or shaving, invisibly shade in a natural manner into the post. As treated in a previous article no set directions can be given for cutting or carving this claw; the carved claw is very much in evidence, and, as in everything else, a careful inspection will aid materially in producing a good effect, even with the chisel or gouge in use by the carpenter. The claw as a termination is selected, for with the inexperience of an amateur in carving the necessary unevenness and roughness will, by contrast to plain parts, make a pleasing feature. A rough claw is better than if it were produced from a turning lathe, if that were possible. A pleasing effect, in place of carving the ornaments On the side of a couch, is to jig saw the patterns detailed from a 2-in. block, then by passing them along a set straight gauge slit them on the band saw into frets 3-16 in. in thickness. Glue these along the proper line and direction, and after sanding the edges a very pleasing form of relief will result.

The foot posts are 2f in. square, with the three exposed corners chamfered. A turned ball 2 1/2 in. in diameter gives a finished termination. The head end rail, 6 in. wide, is placed in line with the side and foot rail, and then panelling or veneer occupies the space between that and the inclined frame. The molded effect along the upper edge of the head support and rails may either be a narrow framing surmounting the construction or a moulded strip secured as an after finish.

The form of upholstery shown in the cut is now very generally a part of the simple class of furniture and stands for just what they are - bags, made in a prima-tive manner, filled with soft material. Here again the craftsman of today will be equal to the occasion and find little that requires special skill in making the cushions to fit his frames. Soft, pliable Spanish leather (sheep skin) in all colors may now be secured in many towns. Unnecessary expense may enter here as in everything else, and it would be well to make the selection by samples. The bottom cover piece may also be of the same color and grain imitation, but of pantasote or other substitutes for leather. Likewise, instead of upholsterers curled hair a half quantity vegetable down may be used. It will be quite necessary, as well as satisfactory to guard against waste and to find the exact size of leather, to make a sample cushion one-half size of the couch body -that is, divide the couch into three pillows, using some cheap material and cutting it ample to allow for pillow when filled to the width of the frame. The filling should not be less than 5 in. in thickness.

From this bag material, if made to fill up properly, the exact size of the leather covers may be found, allowing more on these for 1/2 in. to be turned in on all sides. This 1/2 in. extra is turned and pressed or hammered into a crease, and the two creases of the four edges of each piece are brought together, rough side in, then held for a time while holes are made with a belt punch about 1 in. apart. Through these holes, as shown in Fig. 4, a thong strip, cut from the leather, is drawn, and in the after finish a second thong may be drawn, inserted so as to produce a cross weave effect. One side of the bag is of course left open to receive the inter filled bag, or the filling may be put in direct and the thong continued through the holes and finally tied in a neat manner, provided with the side stretchers glued to legs and treated with hot glue in mortise holes of the back posts. Drive these in them, gluing the seat mortises; drive into place the legs.

In this class of work - open and liable to spring out of true - it is well to have a rule, or trying stick, to immediately square the frame before the glue has positively set, the bar clamps sometimes being brought into good use, to pull into place a refractory part-When the chair is well set, cut the back posts at bot" torn | in. to give proper inclination. Clean off any excess of glue and hand sand from top to bottom, taking off any crude edges.

An arm chair to match this pattern may be constructed from a drawing making the size of seat proportionately 2 1/2 in. larger than called for in Fig. 5, and the height 32 in., between arms 19 1/2 in. and the height of arms 10 in. from the seat.-"Carpentry and Building."