Carl H. Clark
A slide or hatch must now be fitted over the opening in the cabin roof. It is shown in detail in Fig. 27, and consists of two side pieces, with a groove about 1/2 in. square on the inside. The cover is built up on cross beams which have projections fitting into the groves in the side pieces. In this way the cover can slide forward and yet stay in place. Door jams and sill are next fitted. The sill should be raised about 6 in. above the standing room floor. Doors may be purchased quite cheaply, so that it will be better to do this than to attempt to make them.
The inside of the cabin can be arranged to suit the individual ideas of the builder; as it is a rather simule mateer, but few directions will be given. A very convenient arrangement, however, is to have a transom, or berth, on each side about 10 in. above the floor and about 6 1/2 ft. long, adjusting the width so as to leave about 12 in. between it and the centerboard trunk. At the forward end of 'each transom a locker can be arranged for dishes, etc., and forward of this can be other lockers to suit the builder. Room should, however, be left for the storage of anchors and cables.
A folding table can be fitted to top of the center-board trunk; and such other fittings as may be considered desirable.
The seats in the standing room are arranged to run all the way around except across the forward end. They should poject about 14 in. clear of the washboard, and are supported on stanchions and braces to the ribs.
If a tiller is fitted, it should project out above the seat and be curved upwards to be easily grasped. Some sailors prefer a wheel for steering,; it is, how-eer, a matter of fancy. If a wheel is fitted, a box is built above the seat to cover the gear. This work, with such additional small variations which may be worked in, should about complete the construction of the hull.
The installation of the engine is the next work on hand. The size may vary from 3 to 6 horse power, according to the amount the builder can afford to put into it. A 3-horse engine will make her easily controllable in calm weather and give a fair speed. A 6-horse power, on the other hand, will enable her to be lun under the engine in any circumstances. If a single cylinder engine is selected, not over 3 1/2 h. p. should be used, on account of the weight. A double cylinder engine is by all means to be preferred, as it is lighter, smaller, and sits lower in the boat. An engine of this type of about 4 or 5 h. p. will be found to give excellent results. It should be of the medium weight, high speed type and be as light as possible.
The engine bed must be built from measurements taken from the engine. The bed is built as shown in Fig. 22, of two side pieces, resting either on the bottom or on heavy cross braces. The side pieces are of oak, about 2 1/2 in. thick and the same distance apart as the flanges of the engine. If the width outside of these side pieces is greater than the width of the bottom, three cross pieces can be fitted in across the bottom and the side pieces fitted on top of these, being notched down over them and nicely fitted. The upper edge of these side pieces must be in the same relation to the shaft center as the flanges on the bed. Between the side pieces, vertical cross pieces are fitted to hold the side pieces rigid. The whole is then firmly fastened together and to the bottom. A line or wire passed through the center of the shaft hole and drawn tight to a nail on the centerboard trunk will be of great help in locating the center.
When this is done the engine can be placed in position on the bed. The shaft and stuffing box should now be put into place, the stuffing box fitted nicely against the stern post, so that it will not bind the shaft when fastened in place. The under face of the stuffing box should be well smeared with lead before fastening. The propeller is now placed on. the shaft and the latter inserted into the hole in the coupling on the engine. The exact amount to be cut off in order to bring the propeller to the proper position may then be measured. When this is done, the shaft is reinserted and the coupling set serews tightened up. If the engine is correctly set all will now be free and turn easily. If they do not, the alignment of the engine can be changed slightly by twisting it, or by placing thin strips of wood under the flanges. When this is correct the engine may be fastened down with lag screws. The rudder and iron skeg may now be put in place.
The first piping to be fitted in place should be the exhaust. If a muffler is used it may be placed under one seat with the outlet through the side of the boat, or it may be placed in the stern under the overhang, with the outlet through the sternboard. In either case the piping should run below the standing room floor.
For the engine in this position an under-water exhaust is a very good device, as it saves considerable piping. Great care must, however, be used in fitting the under water exhaust as otherwise considerable back pressure may be caused, which reduces the power. This back pressure may be reduced by having the exhaust as near the water-line as possible. A pet cock should be placed in the exhaust pipe near the engine, by opening it When the engine is stopped the water cannot be drawn up into the cylinder by the vacuum.
There is a make of under-water exhaust which contains a passage through which the water is forced by the motion of the boat, mingling with the exhaust and drawing it out. It is said to give very good results In many cases the exhaust may be arranged to pass out directly at the water-line. The method to be used will vary with the makes and style of engine used, so that more specific directions can hardly be given.
The cooling water may be piped next, using the same size pipe as the connections on the engine. The strainer for the inlet should be placed near the engine and yet for enough down on the bilge so not to be thrown out of water by the rolling of the boat. A short piece of rubber hose should be inserted on the line to give elasticity and prevent the vibration of the engine from starting the connection of the pipe with the hull and causing a leak. The discharge of the cooling water may either be carried out through the side well above water or into the exhaust. The latter is the preferable way.
The gasoline tank should hold about 10 gallons, and may be placed forward of the mast, or under the seats in the standing room. If the muffler is placed under one seat the tank may be placed opposite it to balance it. If the muffler is placed in the stern, or if no muffler is used, two gasoline tanks can be fitted, one under each seat, allowing them to me smaller, and so less conspicuous. The filling pipe should in any case run up through the deck outside the coaming, so that any .overflow will drain overboard and not into the bilge. A stop cock should be fitted at the tank and also at the carburettor. The gasoline piping should be of 1/8 in. lead pipe, with all joints soldered.
Batteries and coils should be kept in the cabin where they will be dry, as moisture is detrimental to both.
After the engine is completely set up, the floor may be fitted around it. A portion around the engine should be easily removable, and a ledge about 1 1/2 in. high should be fitted around the edge of the opening.
If desired a box may be made to cover the engine when it is not in use; but as a box is a rather clumsey affair to stow when the engine is running, a cover of thick water proof canvas will do equally well and takes up less room.
There are many details both as to hull and engine fitting which can as well be left to the fancy of the builder. A little observation of existing boats will often give one many valuable points as to fitting and small details of equipment. It is advised that at about this stage of the work, the amateur builder take a few trips, if possible, among any boat shops or storage places which may be in his neighborhood.
With the finishing of the work as described the hull and engine should be about complete, leaving only the sails and rigging, which will be the subject of the next chapter.