Protecting The Fingers From Chemicals

The finger nails and fingers may be easily protected from stains of chemicals by coating with a wax made up as follows: Melt white wax in the same manner as melting glue. This may be done by cutting the wax into small pieces, placing them in a vessel and setting the vessel in boiling water. To each ounce of melted wax thoroughly stir in 1 dr. of pure olive oil. The fingers should be dipped into the wax while it is in a liquid state. This will form a coating that will permit the free use of the fingers, yet protects the skin from the chemicals. It is useful for photographers.

A Temporary Funnel

The amateur photographer often has some solution which he desires to put into a bottle which his glass funnel will not fit, says the Photographic Times. The funnel made by rolling up a piece of paper usually allows half of the solution to run down the outside of the bottle, thereby causing the amateur to be dubbed a "musser," A better way is to take an ordinary envelope and cut it off as shown by the dotted lines. Then clip a little off the point, open out, and you have a funnel that will not give any trouble. It is cheap and you can afford to throw it away when dirty, thereby saving time and washing. Paper Funnel

Illustration: Paper Funnel

Stretcher For Drying Photograph Prints

A quick and convenient way to dry prints is to place on a cheesecloth stretcher. Such a stretcher can be made on a light wood frame, constructed of 3/4-in. square material in any size, but 12 by 24 in. is large enough. The end pieces B are fastened on top of the long side pieces A, and the cheesecloth C stretched and tacked over them, as shown.

The prints should be placed face up on the cloth, and the frame set near a window. If the stretcher is made in this way, the air can enter from both top and bottom, and the prints will dry rapidly. Several of these frames can be stacked and a large number of prints thus dried at the same time. --Contributed by Andrew G. Thorne, Louisville, Ky. Cloth on the Frame

Illustration: Cloth on the Frame

Photographic Developing Tray

Plates developed in an ordinary tray must be removed from the bath occasionally for examination. The film when in a chemical-soaked condition is easily damaged. The tray illustrated herewith was made for the purpose of developing plates without having to take hold of until the bath had completed its work, the examination being made through the plate and the bottom of the tray.

A pocket is provided for the liquid developer in one end of the tray when it is turned up in a vertical position. A tray for developing 5 by 7-in. plates should be made 8 in. square inside. The side pieces with the grooves for the glass are shown in Fig. 1. Two of each of these pieces are made with mitered ends. The short groove shown in the top piece of the illustration is for inserting the plate covering on the pocket end of the tray.

Developing Tray with Glass Bottom

Developing Tray with Glass Bottom

Two blocks, one-half the length of the side pieces, are put in between the glass plates to hold the plate being developed from dropping down. when the tray is tipped up in a vertical position. The glass bottom of the tray is 8-1/2 in. square, which allows 1/4 in. on all edges to set in the grooves of the side pieces. The wood pieces should be well soaked in hot paraffin, and the mitered corners well glued and nailed. -Contributed by J.A. Simonis, Fostoria, Ohio.

Toning Blue On Bromide And Platinum

After some experimenting to secure a blue tone on bromide prints, a correspondent of the Photographic Times produced a very pleasing bluish green tint by immersing the prints in a solution composed of 30 gr. of ferricyanide of potash, 30 gr. citrate of iron and ammonia, 1/2 oz. acetic acid and 4 oz. of water. After securing the tint desired, remove the prints, rinse in clean water for a few minutes, and then place them in a dilute solution of hydrochloric acid. Wash the prints thoroughly and hang them up with clips to dry.

Repairing Box Cameras

In repairing the inner part of box cameras which have been broken loose, use a binding of strong black cloth well glued in place. This will materially strengthen the joints where the wooden pieces are so thin that it is impossible to use brads in holding together.

Do not forget to thoroughly clean all the old glue or cement from the joints with a rasp or sandpaper before attempting a repair.