During the past few years there has been a tremendous interest in ship model making, and many of those who are indulging in this fascinating hobby have collected a variety of special tools, books, and pamphlets on ship models, templates, and other accessories. It seems appropriate, therefore, to offer a drawing of a genuine old-time sea chest (Fig. 3) in which to store these materials. Aside from its quaint charm and fascination, the chest can be used for this or a number of other purposes.

This chest (Fig. 4) is one of a number in the marine room of the Peabody Museum at Salem, Mass. It was chosen because it is not too large, is not difficult to build, and is attractive in appearance. The cost of the lumber - only from twenty to twenty-five board feet of white pine - is only a few dollars.

Fig. 4. - Drawings prepared from sketches and measurements made by Frederick J. Bryant in the Marine Room of the Peabody Museum, Salem, Mass. The original chest is of pine.

The design can be altered in various ways, if desired, to suit individual requirements. For example, the interior can be lined with red cedar, or rope handles can be substituted for the metal ones. A chest of a decorative type, but not so practical, can be made by using a flat cover without any overhang, on the top surface of which is drawn an ellipse measuring, say, 7 by 12 or 8 by 14 in. Within this oval may be painted a picture of a sailing vessel or a marine view.

To make an exact copy of the original chest, select two pieces of white pine ¾ in. thick, 11 in. wide, and 31½ in. long. The two pieces for the ends are ¾ in. thick, 11 in. wide, and 15 in. long at the base and 13¾ in. long at the upper edge.

Making the dovetail joints is not a difficult process. A careful layout, sharp tools, and a little patience will insure good results. First select the front side and score a sharp knife line across the board and ¾ in. in from the end. Do this on all four boards and on both outside and inside surfaces. On the boards for the front and the back measure off with a pair of dividers or compasses a series of %-in. spaces (see the detail drawing of the dovetails).

Next take a piece of scrap wood, place a knife line ¾ in. in from the edge, and lay out a full size dovetail, measuring 7/8 in. at the back and ¼ in. at the edge.

From this layout or pattern of one dovetail, set your sliding T-bevel to determine the slope of the sides. Then set the bevel against the %-in. measurements on the front board, hold it firmly, and mark the lines with a knife. Now pass the lines across the ends of the board, using a try-square. Finally, score the lines on the inside of the board, using the bevel again. All the dovetails on both ends of the long pieces should be alike.

Place the board in a vertical position in the vise and saw very carefully just inside the knife lines with a dovetail saw or a fine hacksaw. Chisel out the stock between the cuts, being careful not to cut beyond any knife line. Some may prefer to place the board down on the bench and remove the surplus wood with a chisel and a mallet. Every dovetail should be clean-cut, and all uneven spots must be cut away.

The next step is to cut the tenons or pins in the end boards. See that the stock checks up with the measurements on the drawing. Place one piece in a vertical position in the vise and set one of the long boards in position on it, lined up corner to corner. Hold it so that it cannot move and with a sharp knife transfer the outline of the dovetails to the ends of the short board. It is a good practice to number the corners of your chest and check these numbers each time the corners are mated.

Take the long board out of the way and square the knife lines from the end layout down each side as far as the ¾-in. line. This time you are to cut away the stock between the dovetail marks (see the end view of the chest, Fig. 4, page 6).

Next try to assemble the chest, but do not glue it yet. Check the corner numbers and press the joints together; do not pound the work with a mallet. See that all parts fit snugly and test the assembly with a steel square. If everything is satisfactory, you are ready to glue the joints. Any defective work can be remedied by using a plastic wood composition.

The bottom of the chest is ¾ in. thick and extends ¼ in. beyond the sides and ends of the box. This edge is rounded over. As the sides slope somewhat, it will be necessary to "level off" the upper and lower edges of the chest before fitting the cover and base. Screws and glue are usually used to fasten the bottom of the chest.

The cover is rather unusual. It is evidently a plank about 1 ¼. in. thick. Along the outside edge it is only % in. thick and has an overhang with a molded edge of the same dimensions. Some of the overhang over the hinges may have to be reduced to allow the cover to be opened wide; this depends upon the offset of the hinges used.

The iron trimmings on the original chest are handmade. The material is quite thin and appears to be hammered. The hinges, which are made of two strips of stock ¾ in. wide, pass underneath the cover. On the backboard each hinge extends down as far as the bottom. The hinges are placed 5% in. in from the corners of the chest.

The handles also are handmade, and the bails are made of round stock with three knurls or knobs in the center. All the iron fittings are painted black. Ready-made hinges and handles may be used if an exact duplicate is not desired. An iron lock with a small escutcheon for the keyhole is necessary to complete the fittings.

Whatever kind of stock you may use, it is well worth your while to sandpaper the chest inside and out as thoroughly as possible.

If your chest is made of white pine, it will look well finished with oil; or one coat of white shellac and another of varnish will make a fine contrast with the black iron bands and trim. Sea chests sometimes were painted, and you may prefer to paint yours in an attractive color.