This section is from the book "Things To Make In Your Home Workshop", by Arthur Wakeling. Also available from Amazon: Things to Make in Your Home Workshop.
The home worker often desires to keep the door of a cabinet or cupboard closed without the use of a lock, a latch, or a surface catch of any kind. The best solution is to apply a friction catch (Fig. 41), which is cheap, efficient, and, above all, easy to fit.
Ball friction catches usually range between ¼ and ½ in. in diameter and ½ and 1 in. in length. The size most commonly used for work about the house is 3/8 by ¾ in., for a catch of that size may be safely placed in a 13/16-in. rail or partition.
This type of catch may be purchased in almost any well-stocked hardware store. It is best to obtain the adjustable variety, if possible; then the ball may be screwed in or out to compensate for the shrinkage or swelling of the door. To turn the ball, it is necessary to insert the points of a pair of dividers in the slots or holes made for that purpose.
Fit and hang the door accurately, allowing for the "sinkage" - let us say 1/32 in. Then it is necessary to decide whether the catch is to be located in the top or bottom edge of the door about 1 in. from the lock edge, or in the lock edge of the door near the knob or pull.
If the face of the door twists out a little or is not perfectly straight at the top, the catch may be placed at the top; it will then hold the door straight unless it is too badly out of true. If the lower corner springs out when the door is closed, the catch should be placed there. If placed near the center of the lock edge, the shrinkage of the door may demand more frequent adjustment of the catch, but the door can be opened and closed more easily.

Fig. 41. - How a friction catch is inserted in a hole bored in the door frame and how the striker is fastened to the door.
Locate the center of the catch about as indicated, the dimensions being intended to show only the relation between the ball and the front of the frame as compared with the center of the striker socket and the face of the door. The dimensions will vary with the thickness of the door and frame and the surface sinkage of the door.
Bore the hole in the frame to receive the plug and drive the plug into the hole as at A. Close the door and work it back and forth a few times to mark upon the edge of the door the point where the center of the ball rests when the door is closed. A broad chalk mark made at this place to receive the track made by the ball will make the point show more definitely.
Place the striker plate on the door with its beveled edge facing the inside of the door as at B. Have the center of the striker socket coincide with the center point marked by the ball on the edge of the door.
Mark accurately around the striker with a sharp-pointed knife. With knife or "chisel cut a recess to these lines so the face of the plate will fit closely, and of the depth to allow the striker plate to rest flush with the wood when fastened in place with screws. Cut away the wood under the striker socket to allow the ball to enter freely as at C.
If the frame of the door opening is not thick enough to receive the plug, it will be necessary to set it in the edge of the door. This is not so satisfactory as placing it in the frame.
 
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