When removed, it leaves a clear-cut line of the desired width for the boot-top painting.

At least three coats of any finish should be applied and each coat (except lacquer, which should not be sanded between coats) lightly sanded with No. 00 sandpaper. The final coat should be rubbed with pumice- or rottenstone and oil. A high-grade standard finish should be used, and the varnish must be of the quality known as "outside spar."

Fig. 58. - Dimensions of masts, spars, and sails, and suggestions for painting the hull.

If desired, a gold or bronze arrow stripe may be painted just below the deck line. The name should be painted across the stern transom.

One of the most attractive Waite High School models is built of mahogany, the topsides being filled with light brown paste wood filler and varnished and rubbed. The bottom is marine green, the boot-topping a gold bronze. Another attractive color combination is a pine deck in a natural varnish finish, a mahogany or walnut rail, a white enameled topside, a red boot-topping, and a marine green bottom.

Between coats, while the paint is drying, the builder can make the fittings and spars (Fig. 58). The mast and booms are made of clear, straight grained white pine or spruce, planed square to the required dimensions. The corners are then planed off to an octagonal shape, and finally the remaining corners are planed off, too, and sandpapered smooth and round. The spars should be varnished. A standard ½-in. brass ferrule and two pins are fitted at the bottom of the mast, as illustrated in Fig. 57.

The mast step is made of mahogany or walnut and secured by means of No. 8-32 brass machine screws with adjusting nuts on top.

The rudderstock is made of 1/8-in. brass tubing slotted on one side with a hack saw to take the 26-gage brass rudder, which is then soldered in. The tiller is made of the same sheet brass, bent double and riveted or pinned to the rud-derpost. Holes are drilled in the tiller for the sheet line hook. This permits the shortening of the lever arm to suit the pull on the tiller, which varies according to the wind pressures. The rudder, when completed and fitted in placed, should be free to swing back and forth at the slightest pull on the tiller.

The chain plates are of sheet brass, bent and drilled as shown. The brass fittings may be polished with fine emery cloth and lacquered bright, or they may be nickel plated or, of course, painted.

A simple gooseneck (that marked No. 1 in Fig. 57) can be made with brass ferrules and brass wire. Gooseneck No. 2 is very satisfactory but more difficult to make.

German silver wire is excellent for the stays, but bronze wire also may be used. The stays should be tightly looped around the mast (36 in. above the deck) over fine cotton cord lashing, varnished in place so as not to slip down. Turn-buckles in the 1-in. size can be purchased from several supply firms. The jumper stay from the mast tip to the taffrail aft should be light cotton cord or fishline with a toggle adjustment. The toggles are made of celluloid, bone, or hard maple, with a small hole at each end in which the cord binds or grips when the pull is at an angle. These toggles permit of rapid adjustment.

To aid in keeping the sail flat and to prevent the boom from lifting, a light spring or a rubber band is secured about 2 in. from the end of the boom to the mast step.

The jib sheet traveler may be made of brass wire (about 18 gage), bent as shown, with the eyes sufficiently large to take small oval-headed brass screws.

The sails may be made of Egyptian spinnaker cloth, balloon cloth, union silk, or high-grade cambric. Two-ounce spinnaker cloth is satisfactory and may be secured through any canvas dealer.

It is advisable to make full sized ma-nila patterns of the sails. In order that the weave may take the strain without stretching out of shape, it is essential that the leech (after edge) of both sails be parallel to the selvage edge of the cloth. Draw around the patterns with a sharp, soft pencil. This line represents the finished size of the sails, so a cutting line should be drawn % in. outside of the pattern to allow for a ¼-in. hem. Baste the hems carefully and, for the most satisfactory results, sew them on a machine with silk.

A triangular piece of celluloid is cemented and sewed inside the hem at the head of the mainsail to keep the corner flat. The batten pockets, which are sewed on, may be of tape with selvage edges or of the sailcloth (with the raw edges turned under). The outer ends of the pockets are left open until the celluloid or wood battens are inserted, and then these edges are closed with hand sewing.

To take the strain of the hoist and thus prevent undue stretching of the sailcloth, a strong cotton draw string may be threaded through the hem at the luff (forward edge of the sails) and made fast at the corner eyelets. The draw string should be just taut enough to permit a full hoist without puckers in the hem.

In each corner of the sails a metal eyelet is inserted with an eyelet punch, but the punch should not be used to make the preliminary holes or the eyelets might work out. The holes should be pierced or stretched open with an awl or bodkin. If an eyelet punch is not available, the holes may be buttonhole stitched.

The simplest method of attaching the sails to the mast is by lacing them with a needle and a linen thread through the hem of the sail and around the mast. A neater arrangement, and one which readily permits of dropping the sails, is to run a fine German silver wire fitted with a turnbuckle from the gooseneck to the mast tip. This arrangement is shown on the same detail drawings as gooseneck No. 2. The sails are attached to the wire by means of brass paper fasteners of the type indicated; these are pressed into the hem of the sail. It is advisable to fit two or three fine open hooks along the mast, into which the wire can be snapped to prevent its sagging from the mast.

In bending or securing the sails to the spars, they should not be stretched at all. Allow them to lie evenly and comfortably along the booms with the out-hauls easy.

A small 2- or 3-in. silk American yacht ensign (or, less correctly, the American flag) may be sewed to the cord jumper stay. If a model yacht club is organized and a club flag is adopted, a miniature of this may be flown from the mast tip. For club racing, a black racing number of the size and location directed in the rules of the Model Yacht Racing Association of America should be sewed to the main sail.

A stand for the model should be made. A simple one is constructed of a ½ by 7 by 14 in. plywood baseboard with an upright support at its center, the latter cut to the shape of the hull amidships and extending from the bottom of the keel to the load water line. This center support should have felt glued to the narrow contact surface in order to protect the finish of the model. A hook locks the model securely to the stand