The after castle (X) is of the samc construction as the forward one, but rests on ten curved stanchions and ski<ls. There should be four stanchions to a side and two right aft (although these may be omitted). From the half deck to the stern there are four to a side, nailed to the inside of the bulwarks. They slope slightly aft. To the sides of these, level with their tops, are nailed skids, the forward one being 3¾ in. long and the after one 2% in. The others are lined up between lengths. The two after stanchions are similarly shaped; they support the after skid from underneath.

On these rests the after castle, which is similar to the forecastle. The deck is cut to fit on the skids, but is just 3/16 in. less in width. Instead of a center opening at the after end, there is one at each side to lead into the half decks.

Fig. 28. - Captain McCann working on the aft deck structure. It is at this point that authorities appear to agree that other Santa Maria models are in error because they have an inclosed after castle.

On this are erected the stanchions and skids for the tilt or awning. This has center posts 1% in. long aft and 1 7/8 in. long forward, the forward one being 3/8 in. off center, to make room for the miz-zenmast. On these rests a fore-and-aft skid, and from it to the side posts, which are 1¼ in. long, are stretchers with light skids supporting their outer ends where they meet the uprights.

All these parts are stained light and dark brown with blue outside to match the forward part.

A little awning from some gay striped material of rough texture may be made to cover this. It had better not be spread right over, however, but rolled up and bound to one of the athwart skids.

This top part should not be put in position until after the mizzenmast has been rigged.

Note that, to save space, instructions are frequently given to nail or glue, but in every case, throughout the model, parts should be both nailed and glued wherever possible. For very small nailing, ½ in. long bank pins are best, but where possible 3/8-in. or longer No. 20 brads should be used.

On the main deck there will be a hatch (Fig. 27), which can be made of wood ¼ by 1 by 1 1/8 in. with a line scored around the top to represent the part that lifts off. It should be stained almost black and glued to the deck 2 in. forward of line IV. Another hatch, somewhat smaller, will lie between the mizzen and mainmasts.

There should be a ladder with four steps at one side of the mainmast, leading from the lower (main) to the poop. It is made from flat strips of wood about 3/16 in. wide and as thin as you can handle them.

Fig. 29. - The strips for supporting the forecastle, and the framework for the stern superstructure.

The following parts can now be made, but should not be put in position until after the rigging is done:

Two light cannon on swivel supports. There is no certainty as to the exact pattern of these. These are made from wood, but if you are a good metal worker, by all means make them of brass, for then you can have the stands of lighter pattern. If of wood, they should be painted to represent antique bronze, using yellow ochre, green and black. They will stand on the after end of the cow bridge.

Right aft there should be a basket lantern on a bracket. The lantern can be made from strips of metal soldered, but cardboard is easier to use. Shave the end of a round stick to form a mold for the inside of the lantern; over the end of this lay three strips, holding their ends evenly in position with a rubber band. Around these glue three other strips, clipping their overlapping ends together with clamps or other bands. When this is dry, slip the stick out and there is your basket. Put a very thin piece of paper around the stick first, so that the strips will not be glued fast to it.

In the bottom of the basket set a thin piece of wood. The wooden bracket should be nailed to the deck and glued to the bulwark. The basket is nailed to the outer end of the bracket.

The small boat (Fig. 32) is 3% in. long, 1 ¼ in. wide and 7/8 in. deep. It is double-ended with a big sheer. The keel and ends, all in one curve, may be left on in the cutting, or a piece of spline may be nailed on. The boat should be hollowed out as thin as possible, with solid ends and four thwarts. It may be fitted with oars and painter. At each end there should be a single block stapled to the solid parts. It may be painted antique white, bluish white inside, with brown thwarts and gunwales, the latter, of course, being bored for the oar holes. There will be four anchors. These may be bought ready made, cast from bronze or lead, or cut from the latter. The forward ones will be 1% in. long; the after 1% in. or less. They will have wooden stocks, made by cutting the stock to shape, then splitting it down the center, fitting it to the shank and gluing it in place with thread bindings. The stocks will be very dark brown and the metal parts bronze.

Fig. 30. - A section through the stern superstructure ; forecastle and after castle.