The material needed will be referred to as the work proceeds. Little need be bought except the pine for the hull, the reed spline and a few dowel sticks, with cord, wire and canvas for the rigging; indeed, five dollars should cover all the material. It must be kept in mind, however, that ingenuity is constantly needed in all model making. When the desired material cannot be obtained, use something else. The list is as follows:

From lumber dealer: One piece white pine for lifts, ½ by 5½ in. by 15 ft. 6 in., for hull - cuttings from this will make keel, stem, stern, hatches, channels, rudder, boat, etc.; one piece three-ply hardwood or pine 3/32 by5½ by 7½ in. for cow bridge - cuttings from this will make decks; two pieces three-ply hardwood or pine 4½ by 5 in. for fore- and after-castle decks; 20 ft. of chair-mender's spline 1/8 by 3/16 in. for wales and skids; two pieces white pine 1/8 by 3 by 9½ in. for main and after bulwarks; two pieces hardwood 1/16 by 1½ by 9¼ in. for poop overlays; two pieces hardwood 1/16 by 1½ by 5½ in. for bulkhead and stern overlays; one strip 1/8 by ¼ by 28 in. for forecastle framework; one strip hardwood or white pine 3/32 by 1 by 30 in. for fore- and aftercastle sides; 90 in. of 1/10 in. square stock for fore- and aftercastle sides; 62 in. of scant 1/8 in. square stock for corridor framework; one piece hardwood 1/8 by 1 1/8 by 10 in. from which sterncastle supports are cut; one piece hardwood 1/8 by 1/8 by 14 in. for sterncastle support beams; one strip 1/8 by 20 in. for awning frame; one piece oak, % by 2 by 5 in. for base.

From hardware dealer: Dowel sticks, one each 3/8 and 3/16 in., and two ½ in. for spars; casein or carpenter's glue and liquid glue; a few small and large escutcheon pins or round-headed nails; assorted No. 20 brads; twisted linen fishing lines, about 50 ft. each, 1/64,1/32, and 3/64 in. diameters or equivalent to thickness of 4, 8, and 12 sheets of magazine or thin book paper; spool soft brass or copper wire, No. 20 or 22, for dead-eye straps; scrap of lead for anchors; sandpaper.

Sundry: Spool No. 40 black sewing cotton, ordinary pins, ½-in. bank pins, silk for flags, canvas for sails (about 10 by 30 in.).

From paint store: one large tube artists' oil color, white; one small tube each of Harrison red, cerulean blue, Vandyke brown, raw sienna, verdigris green (or viridian); old oak and mahogany stain; clear varnish; alcohol; water color or stamp color for flags.

Miscellaneous: As required.

The hull is made of a series of layers or lifts, so first we must have full sized drawings of each of them. These may be enlarged from the plans given in Fig. 25 to give a model with a 19-inch hull and an overall size of 23 in. long and 21 ½ in. high.

Clear white pine is the best wood. One board ½ by 5½ in. (nominally 6 in.) by 15 ft. 6 in. will be sufficient. On this draw the outlines of the lifts A to N, of which A to F extend the full length of the vessel. G, H and J are short pieces at the bow, and those from K to N are half-length lifts at the stern end. It will also be noted that the hull is at its widest at lift E, and from there "tumbles home," or narrows, as it rises, nearly all its midship length.

On each lift, before cutting, mark the midship line and the necessary cross lines (I to VIII), extending them over the edges. With the fret saw or hand saw and spokeshave, cut each piece to size. To reduce the weight and make the hull less liable to warp, lifts B to E may be hollowed to within ¼ in. of the outline of the lift immediately below. Lifts G, H, K also may be hollowed. Glue together lifts A to F, being careful that the construction lines coincide. Leave this block clamped or heavily weighted for a day.

From a piece of cardboard cut a series of templates to the lines of the bow and stern profiles (sheer plan) and to the body lines (body plan), marking on each where the lower edge of lift E cuts them.

Cut away the projecting corners from the block until the bow and stern templates fit it at the ends. Shave down the center of the top to the deck line, and shave away at the sides until your templates nearly fit when held at their respective construction lines (I to VIII).

Glue on the bow lifts G H J and the stern pieces K to N. Note that the lower edge of L follows K upwards, but that the upper edge comes sharply out to coincide with piece M (see the body plan at line VIII). Piece M starts at line VI, and piece N ½ in. abaft line VIII. Cut the upper-deck line sheer on these and then shape the whole up to the templates. If your lifts are cut properly to shape, this should be a matter of shaving away the projecting corners until you have a smooth surface with easy, flowing lines. The ends should be flat and ¼ in. across the stem and sternposts.

From ¼-in. wood, cut a keel, stem and stern. This is more easily made in three pieces, joined as shown. (Hue and nail on these pieces firmly. Make a bracket for either quarter from ¼-in. wood as shown at O, cutting away the hull so that the forward, upright edge of these pieces is flush with the main hull. Glue and nail these in position.

Fig. 25. - Sheer plan, body plan, and upper and lower lift plans drawn to the inch scale indicated; and a wale and skid plan drawn to a smaller scale.

To the line q (Figs. 25 and 26) cut a rabbet, a bare 1/8 in. deep, and to the line r along the stern do the same. Into these rabbets fit white pine bulwarks Q and R, 1/8 in. thick. Try these out in cardboard before cutting the wood. Glue and lightly nail them in position, then cut their top edges to the lines, making sure that both are the same height. Along the after part set in similar 1/8-in. strips R. Sandpaper all flush with the hull. The parts R extend forward over Q, ending in the one curve; clamp them together here until the glue dries, and reinforce, if desired, with a pin used as a nail.