Sound, knotty white pine should be used in making a small Welsh dresser like that illustrated in Figs. 27 and 28 so that it will be in strict keeping with original antiques of this type. The original antiques of the small Welsh dresser are highly prized and valuable.

Fig. 27. - Welsh dresser noteworthy for its graceful design and small size. It is made of knotty pine.

In finishing the dresser an attempt should be made to imitate the mellow tones of fine old pine furniture. This can best be done by applying one coat of boiled linseed oil followed by a coat of one part walnut oil stain to five parts turpentine. Allow the stain to dry thoroughly and then rub the high parts with fine sandpaper until the wood is almost bare, so as to give the piece a worn effect at those places where wear would naturally become visible in the course of years. Follow this treatment with two thin coats of white shellac and a well-rubbed coat of furniture or floor wax.

Fig. 28. - Front and side views of the dresser, and details of the moldings. The upper and lower sections are assembled separately.

All the applied moldings shown in the drawings (Fig. 28) are of stock design and can be obtained in most localities, although it is possible to substitute other stock moldings in their places. The drawer pulls should have the finish of dull, antique brass.

The dresser is made in two separate units and these, when completed, are screwed together. The instructions for constructing the two parts of the dresser may be summarized briefly.

Body or base unit. Turn the four legs carefully to the design indicated. Work out the rails to the desired profile and hand dress them thoroughly. Cut all joints and assemble the frame. The bottom shelf must be built in at the same time the project is being glued together. Construct the drawer and put it in place. Work out the top and fasten it to the frame from the underside by using panel irons or similar fastenings that will allow for expansion and contraction. Apply all moldings.

Shelf unit. Hand dress all the stock. Cut out the profiles of the sides and the top-piece. Cut dado joints in the sides. Carefully fit the shelf, the top, and bottom, and assemble the whole. Fasten the back in place by nailing through into the shelf and the top and bottom pieces.

Apply the top molding. Screw the shelf part to the body part from the underside. Fit and fasten the molding at the junction of the two units. Clean all parts thoroughly with sandpaper and finish as previously suggested.

When a lacquered finish is desired instead of shellac and wax, the following method may be substituted. Give the wood an antique appearance with greatly thinned brown oak alcohol wood dye or a stain made by dissolving eight tablespoonfuls of air-drying asphaltum varnish in a quart of gasoline. Allow this to dry thoroughly and apply a coat of one part orange shellac and one part denatured alcohol. Smooth this, when dry, with the finest obtainable sandpaper and rub through the stain to form "high lights" as described previously. Dust well and apply another coat of three parts orange shellac to one part alcohol. Finish with two coats of clear lacquer and rub the second with FF pumice stone and crude oil. Finally polish the piece, and the lacquered finish is completed.