Examine the eyes in the stable, then in the light; if they are in any degree defective, reject. Examine the teeth to determine the age. Examine the poll or crown of the head, and the withers, or top of the shoulders, as the former is the seat of poll evil, and the latter that of fistula. Examine the front feet; and if the frog has fallen, or settled down between the heels of the shoes, and the heels are contracted, reject him, as he, if not already lame, is liable to become so at any moment. Next observe the knees and ankles of the horse you desire to purchase, and, if cocked, you may be sure that it is the result of the displacement of the internal organs of the foot, a consequence of neglect of the form of the foot, and injudicious shoeing. Examine for interfering, from the ankle to the knees, and if it proves that he cuts the knee, or the leg between the knee and the ankle, or the latter badly, reject. "Speedy cuts" of the knee and leg are most serious in their effects. Many trotting horses, which would be of great value were it not for this single defect, are by it rendered valueless. Carefully examine the hoofs for cracks, as jockeys have acquired great skill in concealing cracks in the hoofs. If cracks are observable in any degree, reject. Also both look and feel for ringbones, which are callosities on the bones of the pastern near the foot; if apparent, reject. Examine the hind feet for the same defects of the foot and ankle that we have named in connection with the front feet. Then proceed to the hock, which is the seat of curb, and both bone and blood spavins. The former is a bony enlargement of the posterior and lower portion of the hock-joint; the second a bony excrescence on the lower, inner, and rather anterior portion of the hock; and the last is a soft enlargement of the synovial membrane on the inner and upper portion of the hock. They are either of them sufficient reason for rejecting. See that the horse stands with the front feet well under him, and observe both the heels of the feet and shoes to see if he "forges" or overreaches; and in case he does, and the toes of the front feet are low, the heels high, and the heels of the front shoes a good thickness, and the toes of the hind feet are of no proper length, reject him; for if he still overreaches with his feet in the condition described, he is incurable. If he props out both front feet, or points them alternately, reject. In testing the driving qualities, take the reins while on the ground, invite the owner to get in the vehicle first, then drive yourself. Avoid the display or the use of the whip; and if he has not sufficient spirit to exhibit his best speed without it, reject. Should he drive satisfactorily without, it will then be proper to test his amiability and the extent of his training in the use of the whip. Thoroughly test his walking qualities first, as that gait is more important in the horse of all work than great trotting speed. The value of a horse, safe for all purposes without blinds, is greatly enhanced thereby. Purchase of the breeder of the horse if practicable; the reasons are obvious.

Horses, Common-sense treatment for. - (1) All horses must not be fed in the same proportions, without due regard to their ages, constitutions, and work. (2) Never use bad hay because it is cheap; there is no nourishment in it. (3) Damaged corn brings on inflammation of the bowels and skin diseases. (1) Chaff is better for old horses than hay, because they can chew and digest it better. (5) Mix chaff with corn or beans. (6) There is not sufficient nutritive body in either hay or grass alone to support a horse under hard work; in such case the food should chiefly be oats. (7) For a saddle or a coach horse, half a peck of sound oats and 18 lbs of good hay is sufficient; if the bay is not good, add a quarter of a peck more oats. (8) Rack feeding is wasteful; feed with chopped hay from a manger. (9) Sprinkle the hay with water that has salt dissolved in it, because it is pleasing to the animal's taste and more easily digested. A teaspoonful of salt in a bucket of water is Sufficient. (10) Oats should be bruised for an old horse, but not for a young one. (11) Cut grass should always be given in spring to horses that can not be turned out into the fields; it is very cool and refreshing. (12) Water horses from a pond or stream, rather than from a spring or well, because the water from the latter is generally hard and cold, while the former is soft and comparatively warm. The horse prefers soft muddy water to hard water, though never so clear. (13) A horse should have at least B pailful of water morning and even or (still better) four half pailfuls at four several times in the day, because this assuages his thirst without bloating him.

He should not be made to work directly after a full draft of water. (14) Do not allow a horse to have warm water to drink, since, if he has to drink cold water after becoming accustomed to warm, it will give him colic. (15) Do not work a horse when he refuses food after drinking; he is thoroughly fagged out.