Two classes of cloth are manufactured from wool: woolens and worsteds. Woolens are made generally of short wool carded and spun into yarn in which the fibers lie in all directions. This is woven into cloth, the surface of which usually is heavily felted, as in flannel blankets, so that all of the intersections of threads in weaving are covered. In materials of this class the manufacturer has great opportunity to introduce either shoddy or cotton, for the fibers may easily be covered by surface felting.

Worsteds are made from longer staple wool, combed and drawn until the fibers are parallel, then hard twisted. When woven, the ends of the fibers do not project on the surface, and the finish is not intended to cover the weave; hence it is more difficult to adulterate unless entire cotton threads are woven with the worsted, and these are more easily detected than either a mixture of cotton and wool, or shoddy in woolen cloth. Common examples of woolens are flannel, broadcloth, and Venetian cloth; of worsteds, serge, challie, men's suitings, and voile. Mohair is a worsted cloth woven of the wool of the Angora goat, with a warp usually of cotton or silk.*

It is economical to buy good worsted fabrics for the following reasons: They are made from new, long, wool fibers and therefore make a strong fabric; they seldom contain shoddy; they hold in place well when pressed; they are firmly woven and are not easily frayed; they will endure constant wear for more than one season and, if cared for, will look well as long as they last.