How would kidneys and mushrooms go with a bottle of Dog's Head for a little snack after the play? Have ready six lamb's kidneys, halved and skinned. Half a can of French button mushrooms will also be needed.

Put a tablespoonful of butter into the blazer and brown a minced onion in it, then stir in a tablespoonful of flour and add half a can of bouillon, stirring carefully and not forgetting to add a bay leaf. Next goes in a spoonful of kitchen bouquet to give it that brown richness, some salt and cayenne, and a bit of chile pepper. Throw in the kidneys and mushrooms, and when they have heated thoroughly, and the edges of the kidneys are deliciously curled - eat them.

A COMMODORE GERRY "CRAB" is a good accompaniment if the palate craves cheese with the ale. Mash up a generous slice of soft, ripe cheese with vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper until smooth paste and spread on toasted crackers of the saltine variety. It has the genuine crab flavor, and is an ornament to the Commodore, in truth.

EGGS A LA MESSINA This is the chef d'ceuvre of a Marchese who does not disdain to roll back his immaculate cuffs and go into the kitchen -for who else could he entrust with his famous bonnes bouchées? The recipe has been handed down in the house of this Sicilian nobleman for no one dares say how many generations. Boil six eggs until hard, then remove the shells. Roll them in flour, then in a beaten egg to which has been added one-half teaspoonful of oil and the same of vinegar, a few drops of onion juice, a dash of grated nutmeg, salt and pepper, and chopped parsley. When quite well covered, roll again in vermicelli broken into fine bits, and put in the frying basiii ket and plunge in deep lard, frying until golden brown. Arrange on a deep platter and pour over them the following sauce: Put in the blazer a tablespoonful of butter and braid into it a tablespoonful of flour, which should gently brown. Add one-half cupful of Italian white wine and a half-can of bouillon, salt, and cayenne. After boiling about fifteen minutes add a teaspoonful each of chopped chives, parsley, a few stoned olives, and as many mushrooms as you think it will stand. Bring to a boil and serve piping hot with Chianti, or, better still, Brachetto Spumanti or Lachrima Christi.