This section is from the book "Apicius Redivivus; Or, The Cook's Oracle", by William Kitchiner. Also available from Amazon: The Cooks Oracle.
Briskets, and the various other pieces, are dressed in the same way. Wow Wow sauce (No. 328) is an agreeable companion to them.
' Take out the brains, then wash the head well in several waters, and let it lie in soak in warm water for an hour before you dress it. Tie the brains up in a cloth with half a dozen sage-leaves, put them with the head into a kettle with plenty of cold water: when it is coming to a boil, and the scum rises, carefully remove it: when the meat at the neck-end is tender, it is done enough. Halfa calf's head, without the skin on, will take from an hour and three quarters to two hours and a quarter, according to its size; with the skin on, about half an hour longer. Chop the brains with the sage-leaves that were boiled with them, and send them to table on a separate dish, with the tongue (peeled), and cut down the middle, laid on each side of them. This dish is usually attended by bacon or pickled pork, and greens, cauliflowers, or peas, and always parsley and butter. No. 261. If you like it full dressed, beat up the yolk of an egg, and rub it over the head with a feather; powder it with a seasoning of dried and powdered lemon thyme, parsley, pepper, and salt, and bread crumbs, and give it a brown with a salamander, or in a tin Dutch oven: when it begins to dry sprinkle a little melted butter over it with a paste brush. You may garnish the dish with broiled rashers of bacon laid round it.
Calf's head is one of the most delicate and favourite dishes in the list of boiled meats; but nothing is more insipid when cold: and again, nothing makes so nice a hash: therefore, always save a quart of the liquor your head was boiled in, to make sauce, etc. for the hash. Cut it into slices about a quarter of an inch thick, flour them, and lay them ready on a plate: take the bones of the head and the trimmings, a quarter of a pound of bacon cut into slices, (some of that which was dressed to eat with the calf's head when hot, will do,) a bundle of sweet herbs, a large onion, and a blade of bruised mace: put these into a saucepan with the quart of liquor you have saved, and let it stew for an hour and a half; then put half an ounce of butter into another stewpan: when it is melted, add a table spoonful of flour to it, stir it well together, and by degrees add to it the gravy you have made with the bones and trimmings, straining it through a hair sieve: season it with a glass of white wine, and a table-spoonful of ketchup; give it a boil up, skim it, and then put in the calf's head and bacon to warm, (it must not boil after,) and it is ready.
N.B. You may garnish the edges of the dish with slices of bacon toasted in a Dutch oven, and slices of lemon.
Requires more time than any meat. When you cook a leg, which, when well dressed, is a favourite dish with almost every body, take care it does not boil fast; if it does, the knuckle will break to pieces before the thick part of the meat is warm through: a leg of seven pounds will take nearly three hours.
If not done enough, nothing is more disagreeable: if boiled too long, it loses not only its flavour, but its substance becomes soft like a jelly. It can never appear at table without a good pease pudding, and, if you please, turnips and greens, etc. and remember not to forget your mustard pot.
 
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