This section is from the book "Apicius Redivivus; Or, The Cook's Oracle", by William Kitchiner. Also available from Amazon: The Cooks Oracle.
Pick and wash the celery very clean, and cut it into very thin slices; let it boil gently in a little water till it is perfectly tender, then add a Couple of blades of pounded mace, the same quantity of nutmeg, and a little pepper and salt; let these simmer together for a few minutes, and add a piece of butter rolled in flour, and two table-spoonsful of port wine; boil up together, and put in a tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, and half a pint of beef gravy.
* So much depends upon the age of the celery, we cannot give any precise time for this. Young celery will be enough in three-quarters of an hour; old celery will sometimes take an hour and a half.
This is much more in the French style of cookery than the former sauce; some think it more agreeable. The other is simple and elegant; this is very fine and high flavoured.
If You wish for celery sauce when no celery is to be procured, a quarter of a drachm of celery-seed will impregnate the sauce with all the flavour of the vegetable.
Pound sorrel leaves sufficient to get from them two tablespoonful of juice; pass it through a sieve, and add it to some good melted butter, with the yolk of two eggs, and a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg; warm it together without boiling.
My ingenious predecessor, Dr. King, in his letter to Dr. Lister (vide "King's Art of Cookery") says: "The following is the true receipt for making 'The Carrier Sauce,' which 1 have from an ancient manuscript, remaining at the Bull Inn, in BishopsgateStreet: - Take seven spoonsful of spring water, slice two onions, of moderate size, into a large saucer, and put in as much salt as you can hold at thrice betwixt your forefinger and thumb, if large, and serve it up. Probatum est, Hobson, carrier to the University of Cambridge."
Wash half a handful of mint, pick the leaves from the stalks, and mince them very fine; put it into a sauceboat, with a teaspoonful of moist sugar, and four tablespoonful of vinegar; mix well together.
This is an inseparable companion to hot lamb; we wish to see it also as constantly coming to table with cold lamb. If green mint cannot be procured, this sauce may be made with mint vinegar. See No. 398.
Pare, core, and slice three good sized baking apples, put them into a pint saucepan, (cover it close, because the steam helps to do them,) with one clove, a bit of cinnamon about as big as a clove, a roll of lemon-peel carefully pared thin, without any of the white, one tablespoonful of cold water, and a teaspoonful of moist sugar; set the saucepan near (but not on) a slow fire; be sure to put them on a couple of hours before dinner, for some apples will take an hour's stewing, and others will be ready to press in a quarter of an hour: when the apples are done enough, take out the spice and lemon-peel, and mash the apples with a wooden spoon.
 
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