This section is from the book "Apicius Redivivus; Or, The Cook's Oracle", by William Kitchiner. Also available from Amazon: The Cooks Oracle.
Pound two cloves of garlick in a marble mortar, with a piece of fresh butter about as big as a nutmeg; rub it through a double hair sieve, and stir it into half a pint of melted butter, or beef gravy.
Pare a lemon, and cut it into slices twice as thick as a three shilling piece; divide these into dice, and put them into a quarter of a pint of melted butter.
A tablespoonful of capers, and two teaspoonsful of vinegar; mince one third of the capers very fine, and divide the others in half; put them into a quarter of a pint of melted butter. Remember to stir them the same way as you did the melted butter, or it will oil.
Some boil and chop a few leaves of parsley, and add these to the sauce; others squeeze in a quarter of a Seville orange, or half a lemon; take care that nothing but the clear juice goes in.
Keep your caper bottle very closely corked, and do not use any of the caper liquor; if the capers are not well covered with it, they will soon spoil, and it is an excellent ingredient in hashes, etc. The Dutch use it as a fish sauce, mixing it with melted butter.
Cut some pickled gherkins into small bits, rather less than capers; put them into half a pint of melted butter, with two teaspoonsful of lemon juice, or nice vinegar, and flavour it with a few drops of essence of shallots or garlick.
Beat up the yolks of two eggs, and put them into a stewpan with two ounces of butter, two blades of mace, and a tablespoonful of elder vinegar, or the same quantity of lemon juice; melt over a gentle lire, stirring the ingredients together all the while the same way, and strain it through a tammis cloth.
Put the meat of two anchovies pounded with a bit of butler, and rubbed through a sieve, a teaspoonful of soy, and two teaspoonsful of mushroom catsup, into half a pint of good cream, add a bit of butter as big as a nutmeg, rolled in flour to thicken it, and give it a boil up.
This is a very delicate and delicious white sauce, and where good cream can be easily procured; much preferable to the butter sauces.
Wash a quart of cockles very clean, put them into a saucepan without any water, cover them close, and stew gently till they open; take the fish out of the shells, wash them in the liquor, strain it, let it stand to settle, and pour the clean liquor from the settlings into a clean stewpan with two ounces of butter, mixed with a tablespoonful of flour; you may put in half a tablespoonful of anchovy liquor, or mushroom catsup, and season it with salt, boil up together till your sauce is thick and smooth.
Is prepared exactly in the same manner as the preceding cockle sauce.
Pick and wash four heads of nice white cellery; cut it into pieces about an inch long; put it in a saucepan with a pint of water, a dozen berries of allspice, a bay leaf, and half a teaspoonful of salt: let them stew till the celery is tender*; roll an ounce of butter with a tablespoonful of flour; add this to the sauce, and stir it till it boils.
 
Continue to: