This section is from the book "Apicius Redivivus; Or, The Cook's Oracle", by William Kitchiner. Also available from Amazon: The Cooks Oracle.
Cut off the shank bone and trim the knuckle of a leg of mutton, and put it into lukewarm water for an hour; wash it clean, put it on in plenty of cold water; let it boil gently; and skim it carefully. A leg of nine pounds will take three hours boiling.
Put four or five pounds of the best end of the neck into a gallon and a half of water, and let it simmer slowly for two hours; it will eat most deliciously tender: it will look most delicate if you do not take off the skin till it has been boiled. Caper sauce and turnips, or spinage, are expected to accompany boiled mutton.
Lamb will take quite as much time in boiling as mutton, and is managed in the same way. After the observations on boiling, which commence this chapter of our work, we have nothing to add.
As this is always expected to come to table looking very delicately clean, etc, you must be careful to have clean water and a clean vessel, and constantly catch the scum, and attend to the directions before given in the preliminary observations. Send up bacon and greens, and parsley and butter, with it.
In plain English, is understood to mean boiled beef; but its culinary acceptation, is fresh beef dressed without boiling, but kept gently simmering over a slow fire. English cooks seem to have no notion that good soup can be made without destroying a great deal of meat: however, by a judicious regulation of the fire, and a vigilant attendance on the soup kettle, this may be accomplished without much difficulty, and you shall have a tureen of such soup as the finest palate will be pleased with, and the meat make its appearance at table possessing its full portion of nutritious succulence. This requires nothing more than to boil or rather stew the meat slowly, instead of fast, and to take it up when it is done enough. Meat cooked in this manner affords more than double the nourishment it does dressed in the common way, is easy of digestion in proportion as it is tender, and an invigorating diet, especially valuable to the poor, whose laborious employments require support, which if they could derive from good eating being put within their reach, they would often go to the butcher's shop, when they now run to the public house. Our neighbours the French are so justly famous for their skill in the affairs of the kitchen, that, as the adage says, "as many Frenchmen so many cooks;" .surrounded as they are by a prolusion of the most delicious wines and most seducing liqueurs, offering every temptation and facility to render drunkenness delightful, a tippling Frenchman is a "rara avis:" they know how so easily and completely to keep life in repair by good eating, they require little or no adjustment from drinking. Tliis accounts for that "toujours gai," and happy equilibrium of spirits which they enjoy with more regularity than any people: the elasticity of their stomachs, unimpaired by spirituous liquors, embrace and digest vigorously the food they sagaciously prepare for it, which they render easily assimilable by cooking it sufficiently, wisely contriving to get half the work of the stomach done by fire and water.
See Receipt for Soup and Bouillie, No. 237,
 
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