The common* Colchester and Feversham oyster are brought to market on the 5th of August; the Milton, or as they are commonly called, the melting natives*, do not come till the beginning1 of October, continue in season till the 12th of May, and reach the meridian of their perfection about Christmas.

* Those are called common oysters which are picked up on the French coast, and laid in the Colchester beds. These are never so fat and fine as the natives.

Some of the amateurs of oysters think they are not best when quite fresh from the sea; the flavour they have is too brackish and harsh, which is much ameliorated by giving them a feed, by covering them with clean water, with a pint of salt to about two gallons; (nothing else, no oatmeal, nor any other trumpery;) this will cleanse them from the mud and sand, etc. of the bed; after they have lain in it twelve hours, change it for fresh salt and water, and in twelve hours more, they will be in prime order for the mouth, and remain so two or three days: at the time of high water, you may see them open their shells, in expectation of receiving their usual food. This process of feeding oysters, is only employed when a great many come up together in their dirt, etc. The real Colchester, or Pyfleet barrelled oysters, that are packed at the beds, are better without being put in water; they are carefully and tightly packed, and must not be disturbed till wanted for table: these, in moderate weather, will keep good for a week, or ten days.

Observations

Nothing appears to common people more indifferent than the manner of opening oysters, or the time of eating them after they are opened; nothing, however, is more important, in the enlightened eyes of the experienced oyster eater.

* Those oysters are thus called which are born as well as bred in this country, and are mostly spit in the Burnham and Mersey rivers, and do not come to their finest condition till they are near four years old.

Those who wish to enjoy this delicious restorative in its utmost perfection, must eat it the moment it is opened, with its own gravy in the under shell: if not eaten while absolutely alive, its flavour and spirit is lost. The true lover of an oyster will have more regard for the feelings of his little favourite, than to abandon it to. the mercy of a bungling operator, but will always open it himself, and contrive to detach the fish from the shell so dexterously, that the oyster is hardly conscious he has been ejected from his lodging, till he feels the teeth of the gourmand tickling him to death.

Scolloped Oysters

Parboil twenty-four oysters in as much water as will just cover them, strain the liquor, and add to it about an ounce of fresh butter, a tablespoonful of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, and half a teaspoonful of ground black pepper, a roll of the rind of a lemon, and a little grated nutmeg.

Beard and wash the oysters, and let them stew slowly for a few minutes in the above liquor, put them into scallop shells, with a little of the liquor in each, and cover them with some fine bread crumbs, put little bits of butter on the top, and bake and brown them in a Dutch oven.