This section is from the book "Apicius Redivivus; Or, The Cook's Oracle", by William Kitchiner. Also available from Amazon: The Cooks Oracle.
Chop the legs and feet of a roast or boiled fowl, and cut three or four thin slices of ham or bacon, bruise them to break the fibres, and make them part with their juice; put them into a stewpan, and let them sweat over a slow fire, strew over them some flour, and keep stirring them, moisten them with half a pint of water and a tablespoonful of good small beer; season it with twelve berries of Jamaica, and the same of black pepper, and some sweet herbs; let it simmer gently: if not thick enough, add a bit of butter and some flour: let it warm together, and strain it.
Boil a ham in the usual way; when it is done enough, run an iron skewer through it in several places; the gravy that comes from it is the "true essence of hum:" put it, while hot, into jelly glasses; the fat that runs out with the gravy will cover the top, and preserve it for six months. The ham will still do for a cold relish, or for potting.
This is certainly the very quintessence of ham, but so expensive, it is only attainable by gourmands of the first magnitude. The following preparation will supply its place at a moderate cost.
You must have a fine and well flavoured ham, or the sauce will be good for nothing. Take care to preserve the gravy that runs from the ham when it is cut at table; and when the ham is pretty well eaten down, so that it cannot appear again at table, nor any handsome slices be cut from it, pick all the meat clear from the bone, (do not put in any of the rusty or decayed parts,) beat it well with a rolling pin, that it may be broken in every part; put this mash into a saucepan, with a slice of fat bacon at the bottom, and some carrot and an onion cut into slices, and pour in two or three tablespoonsful of water; set it over a slow fire for about ten minutes; stir it about till it sticks to the bottom of the stew-pan; then dredge in a little flour, and keep stirring it about for some time, for it will more and more stick to the bottom; after some time, add to it its own gravy that you have saved, and pour in half a pint of gravy, (or water and a tablespoonful of catsup, if you have no gravy,) and add a small sprig of lemon-thyme, sweet marjoram, and winter-savory, two leaves of sweet basil, and a dozen corns of black pepper; cover up, and let it stew very gently, over a very slow fire, for about forty minutes; strain off the gravy through a fine sieve; skim it well; clear it with the white of an egg, give it a boil up, strain through a tamniis, and when cold bottle it for use.
This ham sauce is made with very moderate expense, and is equal to the most extravagant essences of ham: though thus easily and cheaply obtained, it is a very rich article of the sauce kind, and will be found very convenient to heighten the flavour of ragouts, gravies, etc, and for veal, capons, etc.
Two or three slices of boiled ham, minced very fine, with a gherkin, and a morsel of onion, a little parsley, pepper, and nutmeg; stew all together for a quarter of an hour: when it is time to send it up, let your sauce be half boiling, and pour it over the eggs or peas.
"When you have fried the cutlets, take them out, and put into the pan four tablespoonsful of water, a few sweet herbs, a little onion, or nutmeg, and a little lemon-peel shred fine; thicken it with a bit of butter, (as big as a walnut,) rolled in flour, add a tablespoonful of Ball's cavicc, or lemon pickle, and pour it into the dish of cutlets.
 
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