This section is from the book "Apicius Redivivus; Or, The Cook's Oracle", by William Kitchiner. Also available from Amazon: The Cooks Oracle.
"Salmon Gwilts, or Salmon Peel, are the small salmon which come from about 5 or 6 pounds to ten pounds, are very good fish, and make handsome dishes of fish and sent to table crooked in the form of an S.
"Berwick 'Trout are a distinct fish from the gwilts, and are caught in (he River Tweed, and dressed in the same manner as the gwilt.
"Calvered Salmon is the salmon caught in the Thames, and cut into slices alive; and some few salmon are brought from Oxford to London alive, and cut. A few slices makes a handsome, genteel dish, but is generally very expensive.
"Macharel generally make their appearance off the Land's End about the beginning of April, and as. the weather gets warm they gradually come round the coast, and generally arrive off Brighton about May, and continue for some months, until they begin to shoot their spawn, when for above two months they are missing, until about Michaelmas, when there is a few very fat small mackarel of excellent flavour at this time make their appearance again.
"Dutch Plaice, when in season, and what are caught off the Dutch coast, are good fish either fried or boiled: they are frequently condemned as a bad fish, because they do not eat so firm as a turbot or brills, which is not their nature; but they are very rich nutritious fish, more so than turbot; but what are caught on our own coast are nothing equal to the others.
"Soles are a fish that are generally to be procured good from some part of the coast, as some are going out of season, and some coming in, both at the same time; a great many are brought in well-boats, alive, that are caught off Dover, and Folkstone, and some are brought from the same places by land carriage. The soles that are caught on that part of the coast are rather small, but exceeding good fish. The finest soles that arc caught any where, are those that are off Plymouth, near the Eddistone, and all the way up the Channel, and to Torbay; it being very deep water, and the ground a fine gravelly bottom, they feed very solid, and are caught frequently very large, eight or ten pounds per pair: they are generally brought by water to Portsmouth, and thence by land; but the greatest quantity are caught off Yarmouth and the Knole, and a great many are caught off the Forelands.
"Red Mullets are a very delicious fish, commonly called the sea woodcock, they being dressed with their entrails in, there being no gut, only like a string, which is like marrow itself; they only require scraping; washed tenderly with a cloth, and broiled in a buttered paper: they are so rich, they require scarcely any sauce. The best are caught off Plymouth, and all the way up the channel to Portland, and some few off Brighton.
"Gray Mullets, when in season, are very rich, good fish, but not equal to the red: those generally keep in the season near the fresh water* The best way of dressing those, is by baking them in a pye, or roasting, or baking them, with a pudding in their belly, and put in a tureen with some good gravy, and they eat very fine.
"John Doreys are a very good fish, cutting very white and firm, equal to a turbot in firmness, but not in richness: those caught, off Plymouth and. Torbay are the best. Lobster is requisite for: sauce.
"Whitings are a very delicate fish, and require to be eaten very fresh; those caught off Dover and Folkstone are the best: some are brought a and some by land carriage "Skate is a very good fish when in good season, but no fish so bad when it is otherwise: those persons that like it firm and dry, should have if crimped: but those that like it tench ,, should have it plain, and eat not earlier than the second day, and it" cold weather, three or four days old it is better: it cannot be kept too long, it" perfectly sweet. Skate, if young, eats very fine, crimped and tried.
"Haddocks are a firm, good fish; they are dressed many different ways. Large haddocks boiled. and oyster sauce.Haddocks salted a day or two, and eaten with egg sauce, are a very good article. Haddocks cut in fillets, and fried, eat very fine. Or if small, very well broiled, or baked with a pudding in their belly, and some good gravy.
" Fresh sturgeon is esteemed a good fish by many; but.. I beleive. only because it does net come plentiful enough to be common: and to the eater of fish it makes a change: as many gentle-men cannot dine without fish, it makes a variety, or becomes useful, where people want to give a course of fish entirely: a piece stewed with some good gravy is the best way of dressing: or cut in slices, and fried, as you would a veal cutlet, eats very well Sturgeon pickled, makes a handsome winter dish for the second course.
"Smells are allowed to be caught in the Thames on the first of November, and continue till May. The Thames smell are the best and sweetest, for two reasons: they are fresher, and richer, than any other you can get: they catch (hem much more plentiful and larger in Lancashire and Norfolk, but not so good: a great many are brought to town from Norfolk, but barely come good, as they are a fish should always be eaten fresh; indeed all river fish should be eaten fresh, except salmon, which, unless crimpt, eats better the second or third day: but all thames fish particularly should be eaten very fresh; no fish eats so bad kept.
"Lobsters are, in general, to be procured at all times; but the best time is from -April to August. After that time they begin to spawn, and seldom open solid. Crabs nearly the same. Prawns are best from March to August. Crayfish are gene-rally to be procured good at all times; the sea crayfish are very indifferent fish, and of bad digestion; the only thing they are good for, is to make currie. Lobsters are dressed in many ways for dishes; as lobster sall'd, or Italian sall/d, or plain, or currie.
"Crab picked out of the shell, and divided in three parts, and decorated with a little lobster spawn, makes a very handsome dish for the second course, or a supper dish: some cooks and fishmongers dress them very handsome.
"Pipers are a very good fish; the best that are caught are in the mid channel, from off Torbay to Plymouth; they are a very handsome fish when first caught, having many beautiful colours, but soon fade: they eat a great deal like a firm. fine cod: eat good with a pudding in their bellies, baked or roasted, and some good gravy: or plain, boiled as you would a haddock.
"Gurnetts. There are many different sorts of this fish: the red gurnett is a good deal like a piper; it is dressed the same as a piper or haddock.
"Eels are a good, and frequently very useful fish, as you can generally get them when you cannot get other fish, and make a good dish, either stewed or spitchcocked.
"Brawn is sold by fishmongers, and is a good thing for side dishes, or the second course: the brawn makers generally commence making in November, and will continue in season till March."
 
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