Colored jelly in ornamental shapes was the distinguishing characteristic of Car-erne's system in cookery, particularly as he employed it to produce gorgeous effects of light and color in the elaborately decorated set tables and grand banquets of his time; classic figures in wax, waxen leaves and borders and scenic designs are the distinguishing characteristic of the later system originated (or, rather resuscitated, for there is nothing new) by the court cooks at Vienna, and fostered and encouraged by the emperor and em-

Press themselves, as if they would fain have an original system for their own court and following, not borrowed from the French.

The extent of the impression made by Careme upon the English cooks and confectioners, then, might almost be measured by the frequency of the dishes in aspic and the offers of brilliant sweet jellies among the confections for sale in the shops; the prevalence of the German methods by the frequency of the waxen Neptunes, dolphins, forests and flowers worked on the stands which hold up the dishes at any elaborate exhibition of culinary skill. The essential part of the cookery, that which affects the eatable part of the dishes cannot in the nature of things differ much, it is only a divergence of externals and it has to be said of the dishes in jelly that they are at least all eatable, the savory ornaments even more so perhaps than the meat itself.

If there could be an American distinctive style it would be marked by the use of fruit jellies, cranberry sauce and jelly with game, apples, pears and peaches m compotes and pickles sweet as well as sour, such things as Careme had an inking of when he built up his "supremes of truits" - pyramidal forms of fruits preserved whole and decorated with straw-erries and green angelica. But the simple style of individual service now so universally employed while it brings into use a great number of small dishes, glasses and silver-ware almost precludes the use of any method of ornamentation beyond such borders and sprinklings as may be formed in the act of dishing the food.