This section is from the book "Cooking Vegetables. Practical American Cookery", by Jules Arthur Harder. Also available from Amazon: The Physiology Of Taste.
Choux Marins ou Crambe Maritime. Seekohl, or Meerkohl.
No. 1396. - Sea-Kale is a favorite vegetable in the Southern States. The young shoots that appear in spring are the parts eaten, but they are not good until blanched. Their flavor is somewhat like that of asparagus. As the plant is perennial, the young shoots do not appear until the second spring, and are then blanched. The sprouts are cut for use when from three to six inches high and continue in season about six weeks. They are prepared the same as asparagus. The roots are injured by excessive cutting, and some of the shoots should be allowed to make their natural growth, so that strength may be secured for the next spring crop.
No. 1397. - The ground should be trenched one or two feet deep, according to the soil, and should be well enriched throughout. When the plants are to remain, sow the seeds in April. Keep the plants clear from weeds, nip off the shoots of those that tend to run to flower and, in autumn, when the leaves have decayed, add a liberal dressing of compost manure. Early in spring stir a rake over the bed, being careful not to injure the crowns of the roots, and •cover them from eight to ten inches deep with the material intended for blanching. A bed, with good culture and moderate use, will produce well for five or six years.
No. 1398. - Remove the leaves, wash and peel the stems carefully, and tie them in bunches the same as asparagus is tied. Then boil them in lightly salted water and, when cooked, drain them. Serve them on a napkin or on a piece of toast, with Butter sauce or Cream sauce in a separate dish.
No. 1399. - Prepare the Sea-Kale as in No. 1398, and when it is. cooked, serve it on a dish with some Hollandaise sauce poured over it.
No. 1400. - Prepare and cook the Sea-Kale as in No. 1398. Then drain it, and put it in a saucepan with' a piece of butter. Toss it over a brisk fire, season with salt and pepper, and add a little-Espagnole sauce, the juice of one lemon and a little finely chopped parsley.
No. 1401. - Cut the Sea-Kale in small pieces and boil them in lightly salted water. When done, drain them on a napkin, and put them in a saucepan with a small piece of butter. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg and a pinch of sugar; then toss them over a brisk fire for a few minutes, and moisten them with some white broth. When the moisture is reduced, add some Allemande or Cream sauce, rub it through a fine sieve, put it in a flat saucepan and add a glass of cream to reduce the puree to its proper consistency. Add a piece of butter before serving.
 
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