This section is from the book "Cooking Vegetables. Practical American Cookery", by Jules Arthur Harder. Also available from Amazon: The Physiology Of Taste.
No. 875. - This Mushroom is found growing in rings, and has a pileus of a brownish ochre color, which changes to a paler cast as it grows, until it gradually fades into a rich, creamish yellow color. It is of excellent flavor, and is valuable for domestic use, owing to the facility with which it is dried, and its extensive dissemination. It may be kept for years without losing its aroma or flavor,
Note. -The Boletus, Clavaria, and Morel varieties of Mushrooms will be found under their respective headings.
No. 876. - Mushrooms should be used as soon as they are gathered. Put the solid ones in one pan, and those that are hollow in another, having two quarts of acidulated water in each pan. Wash them well, then trim them and put them in separate pans again, that contain acidulated water. Let them soak for a while until ready to use them. The small, solid button Mushrooms will resemble the cultivated French Mushrooms when cooked, and may be used for sauces and small garnitures. Cut off the stems of the hollow ones before washing them. The heads are used for stuffing, and are also broiled. The tops of the solid ones should be cut in crescent-like grooves, to give them a fancy appearance. The trimmings are chopped fine, and are used with fine herbs.
No. 877. - When the Mushrooms are washed and cleaned as in No. 876, select a saucepan that is not too large for the quantity of Mushrooms to be cooked. Put two pounds of fresh Mushrooms in the saucepan and add four ounces of butter, a quarter of a glassful of cold water, and the juice of two lemons. Cover the saucepan, put it on a brisk fire, and when the Mushrooms have boiled for two or three minutes, pour them into an earthen jar. When they are cold cover them with a buttered paper cover and keep them in a cool place. They may be used for any kind of sauces or garnitures. The juice is added to sauces to flavor them.
Note. - When cooking large quantities of Mushrooms, put the saucepan on the fire and add them when the liquid boils. A wine-glassful of water will be sufficient for five pounds of Mushrooms.
No. 878. - Reduce some Allemande sauce with some Mushroom gravy and then add the Mushrooms. If they are small leave them whole; if large, cut off the stems and slice them as desired.
No. 879. - Reduce some Espagnole sauce with some Madeira wine and Mushroom gravy, and then add the Mushrooms as in No. 878.
No. 880. - Put a small piece of butter in an omelet pan, and when it is warm add a handful of Mushrooms and toss them over the fire until thoroughly warmed. Then add a little salt and pepper, two spoonfuls of Mushroom juice, a little lemon juice and some fine chopped parsley. Serve it all hot on pieces of thin buttered toast.
 
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