This section is from the book "Cooking Vegetables. Practical American Cookery", by Jules Arthur Harder. Also available from Amazon: The Physiology Of Taste.
Truffles. Truffle.
No. 1599. - Truffles are a species of fungi that are subterranean in their habit and are mostly found in the neighborhood of oak and chestnut trees, but do not thrive well in thick woods. They are found from two inches to one foot below the soil. They have neither roots nor stems, and vary in color from white to light brown and black. They are somewhat globular in form and vary in size. Their surface is knotty or warty, and is covered with a skin or network which resembles veins. When they have attained their full growth they diffuse an agreeable odor which is quite peculiar. The flesh is solid and has a delicious taste, but when the Truffles are exposed for a few days they begin to decay and become bitter and disagreeable. They are put up in cans and bottles and can be obtained from all first-class grocers. But when canned they have little of the fine flavor and good qualities of the Truffle in its fresh state. They are used principally for stuffing turkeys, capons, and with goose-liver pates, etc. They have always been held in high esteem by epicures, and, owing to their rarity, have always commanded a high price. French Truffles can occasionally be obtained in New York from the stewards on Atlantic steamers, but the majority of those used in the United States are preserved, and the best brands can only be obtained from responsible importers. The district of Perigord in France furnishes the best flavored Truffles, which are of a black color. In the other parts of France they are grayish in color. The Italian Truffles from Piedmont are of a whitish color and have an excellent flavor. Truffles have not yet been found in the United States, although tubers that resemble them have been discovered in California, but it has not been accurately determined whether they are genuine Truffles or not. The following recipes are for canned Truffles.
No. 1600.- Open a can of Truffles and put the juice of the Truffles in a small saucepan. Add a faggot of parsley garnished with a few grains of pepper and two cloves, a small slice of lean raw ham and a large glass of dry champagne. Cover the saucepan and set it on the fire, and when this is reduced to one-quarter of its original quantity, add the Truffles and season with salt and pepper. When the Truffles are thoroughly warmed take out the faggot and dish them up. Pour the gravy over them and serve them with a dish of fresh butter.
Note. - When Truffles are allowed to boil in their sauce, or to remain too long on the fire, they become shrivelled and hard.
No. 1601. - 3Chop two shallots finely and put them in a saucepan with one spoonful of sweet oil. Warm it thoroughly and be careful 24 not to let it get browned. Then add a wine-glassful of Madeira wine and reduce the whole to one-quarter of its original quantity. Then add two spoonfuls of Espagnole sauce and a small clove of garlic chopped finely, and let it boil for five minutes. Then add the Truffles, cut in thick slices, and toss them over when thoroughly warmed. Add a piece of butter, to which add a little anchovy paste, toss them well over until the butter is melted, and then serve.
 
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