This section is from the book "The Culinary Handbook", by Charles Fellows. Also available from Amazon: The Culinary Handbook.
This country consumes in a year about 500,000,000 lemons, or about six and a half lemons for each man, woman and child. The California lemons are very good ones, and only experts can tell them from the Mediterranean crop. For culinary purposes the lemons of Sicily, i. e. from Messina and Palermo, are to be preferred as they possess a much better flavor. A box of lemons averages about 300 each. From 1,500,000 to 2,000,000 boxes are sold in a year here. It is predicted that the California crop will soon average 1,000,000 boxes. It will be interesting to note whether they will drive out any or all of the foreign lemons. They are used by the catering fraternity in large quantities for flavoring and garnishing soups, sauces, salads, meats, fish, pies, puddings, cakes, jellies, extracts, confectionery, mixing with drinks, ices, sorbets, creams, etc.
Three dozen lemons, their equal weight in granulated sugar, lemons halved and their juice extracted and strained, the rinds boiled till tender in plenty of water, then drained, pith scooped out, the skins then finely shred, the juice and sugar then boiled to a syrup, after which is added the shredded skins, boiling continued till reduced to the marmalade consistency; used for steamed roly-poly puddings, tartlettes, layer cakes, etc., etc.
Useful for mince pies in temperance hotels and other temperance functions. Made of 2 lbs. of lemons, 4 lbs. of sour apples, 2 lbs. of beef suet, 4 lbs. of currants, 2 lbs. granulated sugar, 1/2 lb. each of candied citron and lemon peel, 1 1/2 ozs. grated nutmeg, l/2 oz. of mace. The apples cored and minced, the candied peels finely shred, the suet finely chopped, the currants washed, picked and drained, the lemons pared and the juice extracted, the rinds boiled tender, then minced, the whole then thoroughly mixed, allowed to stand a week before using; brandy and port wine may be added if used for other than temperance people.
Two quarts of milk brought to the boil with a pound and a half of sugar; grated rinds of four lemons mixed with six ounces of sifted flour, then made into a smooth thickening with milk; when smooth, poured to the boiling milk and stirred till creamy, then is added three ounces of butter, juice of the lemons and the yolks of 12 beaten eggs, continue stirring till of a custard consistency; then remove and use for filling puffs, eclairs, lemon cream pies, tartlettes, spreading layer cakes, etc.
A rich cream of chicken soup nicely flavored with the grated rinds and juice of lemons.
Lemons with seeds removed finely minced or passed through a mincing machine, enough of it worked into a Veloute sauce to give a pronounced flavor; used for boiled capons, chickens, turkey and fish.
Small glasses with a piece of sponge cake at bottom, spread with lemon marmalade, the glass then filled up high with whipped cream that is sweetened and flavored with nutmeg, and the grated rinds and juice of lemons.
4 lbs of grated breadcrumbs, 2 lbs. of finely chopped beef suet, 2 lbs. of powdered sugar, grated rinds and juice of eight lemons; rinds, crumbs, suet and sugar mixed together dry, the whole then bound with the lemon juice mixed with 18 beaten yolks of eggs; form into dumpling shapes, boil in a cloth, or steam till done (steaming is best); serve with a sweet lemon flavored cream sauce.
 
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