IN securing fruits for making jelly, always procure those which are somewhat under-ripe. The jelly-making quality in fruit is known as pectin and is present when the fruit is either ripe or just turning ripe. If the fruit is over-ripe the pectin disappears, and it will be impossible to make satisfactory jelly. This pectin is somewhat like gelatine, as it dissolves in boiling liquid and stiffens upon cooling. The fruits best suited for jelly making are currants, plums, quinces, crabapples, grapes and apples. These fruits will make a perfect jelly if not used over-ripe. Fruits in which pectin is lacking must be combined with those rich in this jelly-making quality. The novice in housekeeping usually shrinks from jelly making, but if rules are carefully studied and only a small quantity attempted at one time the process will be found very simple and the results satisfactory.

The addition of sugar to cooked fruit increases the nutritive value, and the cooking of the sugar at a high temperature, combined with the acid of the fruit, causes the inversion of the sugar, which is the first step in its digestion. For this reason jellies, jams and marmalades are considered one of the most wholesome forms in which to eat sugar. Children crave sweets and this desire may be gratified in wholesome jellies, jams and marmalades. Unless combined with sugar, the actual food value of fruit is low; but the acids and salts it contains are most important. They are needed to keep the blood pure. There is nothing more wholesome for children and no food the average child enjoys more than bread and jelly or marmalade.

A good jelly should be bright in color, and clear. When removed from the glass it should retain the shape of the mold and be tender enough to quiver without breaking.

When making currant jelly use from 2 to 4 quarts of fruit for 1 utensil. A great quantity takes too long to bring to the right heat and both the color and flavor of the jelly will be impaired. Wash fruit well, remove stems and discard all that is imperfect. With watery fruits* such as grapes and currants, use no water. Cut hard fruits into small pieces and use about 3 cups of water to each pound of fruit. Cook the fruit slowly until the juice begins to flow, then crush with a wooden potato masher. As soon as the fruit is tender remove from the fire and pour into a jelly bag to drain. A pointed three-cornered bag is best, as it lets the juice drain from the corner with the pressure of the bulk of the fruit on the small end. Hang the bag so the juice may drip. When nearly all the juice has been strained through the bag may be squeezed. This last juice which has been squeezed through the jelly bag should be kept by itself as the jelly made from this juice will not be as clear as that which has been allowed to drip. If the fruit is overcooked it will produce a cloudy jellyMeasure the juice, and for each cup allow 3/4 cup of sugar. The sugar should be placed on shallow pans and warmed slightly in the oven. Reheat the fruit juice, and when it reaches the boiling p^int add the sugar immediately.

Cook rapidly about 5 minutes, removing scum as it appears. Long cooking will darken the jelly and tends to destroy the pectin, which will cause the finished product to be less firm.

To determine when the jelly has cooked sufficiently, drop a teaspoon of the syrup on a cold plate. If the jelly stage is reached the syrup will thicken slightly in a few seconds. Remove from the fire at once and pour into hot sterilized jelly glasses and set aside to cool. Cool as rapidly as possible to avoid dust, which will cause mould. When cold pour melted paraffine over the top, cover, store in a cool, dark, dry place.

Jelly deteriorates in color, texture and flavor if stored for a long period. When jelly is soft and syrupy, too much sugar has been used, or the syrup has not been cooked long enough after sugar was added. If tough or stringy, too little sugar has been used or the syrup was boiled after the jelly stage had been reached.

The cleaner the fruit - that is, of stems or leaves, the brighter and clearer the jelly will be. Prepare glasses before making the jelly. After washing well, place glasses in a pan of cold water, set over the fire and when boiling point is reached allow to boil 15 minutes. Just before filling glasses with the boiling syrup set them upright in a pan of hot water, placing a thick pad of cloth in the bottom of the pan. This method of handling glasses will prevent breakage.

Strawberries need a heavier syrup for canning than other fruits, and while it is a little more expensive to make jam or preserves the process is simpler and for this particular fruit much more satisfactory. The berry season is long in California but the berries are at their best in June and should be used for canning or preserving then. The old-fashioned method of making preserves and jams called for equal weights or measurements of sugar and fruit. But science has discovered that an equally satisfactory preserve can be made with only three-fourths as much sugar as fruit. The fruit is kept whole for preserves and is broken or mashed for jams.

Either method may be used. Select only sound, ripe fruit for preserving; use fine granulated sugar; measure the ingredients accurately; sterilize containers and covers, and, most important of all, preserve a small quantity at a time. Pick over fruit carefully, wash and measure. Any imperfect fruit (bruised, but not in any way spoiled) may be crushed and strained through a jelly bag and used for making the syrup. Allow one-half as much water, or juice and water, as you have berries. Use three-fourths cup of sugar for each cup of berries.

Boil the sugar and liquid 5 minutes after boiling begins. Skim, then add berries, a small quantity at a time and cook gently under the boiling point until fruit can be pierced with a fork. The berries will be somewhat transparent. Lift out with a skimmer or perforated spoon and put into the sterilized jars or glasses; add more fruit and repeat until all have been cooked. If much juice has drained from the fruit in the jars pour this back in the kettle and boil all the juice down about 5 minutes, then pour over the berries and set aside to cool. Do not cover or seal until cold. If fruit is sealed while hot the juice will be less thick.

Less perfect fruit may be used for jam than for preserves. Of course, care should be taken to exclude all decayed portions, but the over-ripe and somewhat bruised berries need not be discarded when preparing jam. The fruit should be carefully picked over and well washed.

Combinations of fruits make palatable jams or conserves and sometimes chopped nuts are added.

The labor given to the preparation of jams or preserves is amply repaid in the appreciaton of the family. Jam is certainly a treat for breakfast with hot biscuits or rolls; for dinner as a relish with meat or for supper with hot buttered toast, not to mention the "between-meal" bread and jam for the children after school. The rules governing the making of strawberry preserves and jam may be applied to all other fruits.