The proper selection of poultry is not an easy task. It requires experience, and usually it is necessary to depend somewhat upon the judgment and honesty of the dealer. In making a selection, see that the flesh is firm and that there is a fair amount of fat underneath the skin. The fat should be a yellow color. An overfat bird is not economical and, owing to the flesh being greasy, it is less digestible and delicate in flavor.

When fresh and in good condition, the skin of a turkey should look clear and unwrinkled. When young, all poultry should have a flexible breast bone, smooth, pliable legs and soft feet. If the spurs are large, the legs hard, feet scaly, breastbone rigid and with long hairs,the bird is no longer young.

The question of age and toughness affect its palatability rather than the nutritive value. In fact, a tough old bird may be steamed or fricasseed and be found very delicious.

Be careful to note that poultry is free from all discoloration and that the eyes are clear. Long, thin, purplish necks also denote age. Chickens and fowl have certain characteristics which make them easily distinguishable. Chickens have soft feet, flexible breast bone, many pin feathers and a very small quantity of fat; fowls have hard and scaly feet, a rigid breast bone, long hairs and a large amount of fat.

When a chicken is to be fried or roasted, the question of tenderness is of great importance. The size of a chicken usually indicates its age. The broiler will be small and more tender than the frying chicken, and the frying chicken smaller and more tender than the one for roasting. The more flexible the breast bone the more tender the bird.

Young tame ducks have yellow feet and bills. As they become older these turn darker and become red. The wild duck has small reddish feet, either young or old. The legs of a young bird will be smooth and the webbing of the feet soft.

The legs of geese should be pliable and yellow and the webbing of the feet soft. The bill also should be pliable.

The breast plump and the skin smooth. Geese should always be eaten young.

If the birds have not been dressed by the market man, it will be necessary to attend to these details. If freshly killed, a turkey should be kept for at least 3 or 4 days before cooking, or the flesh will not be white and tender. It should not be dressed until it is to be prepared for cooking.

When dressing poultry, first of all remove all pin feathers. This may be easily accomplished with a pair of broad tweezers. Then carefully singe the bird, turning constantly so that it will be thoroughly singed in every part. Remove the head, then crop attached to the gullet, and the windpipe may be drawn out of the neck opening. It is usually not necessary to make a slit in the neck, and this should be avoided, as the bird will make a much better appearance if it is to be roasted. Cut off about 2 inches of the neck, so that the skin may be folded back.

The neck trimmings should be saved for making stock for gravy or soup. The tendons should be removed from the legs, for when cooked they form a disagreeable hard substance. To remove, carefully make an inch slit lengthwise through the skin below the knee joint and at one side; on laying open the skin, the tendons, white, shiny cords, will be seen. Slip a skewer or large nail under each one and pull them out. If the bird is old this will be found a little hard to do.

Never allow the tradesman to cut off the legs of poultry, for then the tendons cannot be removed.

When tendons have been removed cut off the feet. Make a 2-inch incision near the vent, insert two fingers and carefully loosen the entrails. When all are loose, grasp the hardest subtance, the gizzard, and pull it out. Everything else will come with it, but be careful not to press anything; then there will be no danger of breaking the gall bladder. Insert the hand and remove the spongy substances which lie under the breast in cavities; the kidneys will be found in similar cavities down the backbone.

Let cold water run through the bird until it is thoroughly cleaned; then dry thoroughly and stuff at once.

In cutting a bird for a fricassee, have sharp knives. Cut off the legs at the first joint, then separate at the second one. This is easily done if the legs are bent. Cut off wings and disjoint them. Separate breast bone from the back, divide back in 4 pieces, slit down the breast, cutting it in two. Each of these pieces may be cut in halves.

To stuff and truss poultry for roasting, first put a little stuffing in the neck and fill in where the crop has been removed. Fold over the skin of the neck to the back and fasten with a small skewer or sew in place with a trussing needle. Then stuff the bird 3/4 full through the incision made in drawing. Tuck the tail into the opening and sew firmly into place. Now remove the oil bag by cutting around it with a sharp knife.

If too much stuffing is used there will be no allowance for swelling and it might burst through.

Pinion the wing close to the side and run a skewer through each side or a threaded trussing needle through the wing and bird to the other wing. Take a stitch to hold firmly and then run needle back through the bird again and tie the thread so it may easily be removed. This will hold the wings in place. Fasten the legs in the same manner.

To prepare the giblets wash the heart and cut it in two lengthwise. The gall bladder is a little green sack attached to the liver. Great care should be taken not to break it, as it contains a very bitter substance. Cut through the thick part of the gizzard, empty it and pull out the tough inside skin. Put the giblets and trimmings from the neck in a quart of boiling water. Cook until tender; then chop giblets fine, strain the stock and use for a sauce or gravy, adding the chopped giblets.

To cut chicken for stewing or frying; After dressing remove tendons, pin feathers and the oil bag. Cut through the flesh at the thigh, bend back legs and cut off. Separate second joint and drum stick. Remove wings and cut off the tips. Cut through the ribs to separate back from breast. Cut breast in two with a heavy knife or cleaver.

Roast Duck

Dress in the same manner as for chicken, wash well with salted water. Truss into shape with a larding needle or skewers.

Place several stalks of celery inside the bird and set in a very hot oven. The time required for cooking is 18 minutes if liked rare to 40 minutes if desired well done. There is a difference of opinion as to whether ducks should be salted before or after cooking. It is really a matter of taste.