This section is from the book "Choice Dishes At Small Cost", by A. G. Payne. See also: Larousse Gastronomique.
Bubble and Squeak consists of warming up any cold vegetables - such as greens and potatoes - in some dripping in a frying-pan. Slices of onion can be added, as well as the remains of cold meat, or any scraps. Fry for a quarter to half an hour, according to quantity; flavour with pepper and salt. When meat is added, put the meat in the middle, and the fried vegetables round the edge.
Cut off the stalks, and trim away the outside leaves, and any dead ones. Cut the cabbages in halves, wash them thoroughly, and soak them in salt and water. Boil (see No. 9). Young summer cabbages take from ten to fifteen minutes, old ones half an hour; but try them with a fork, and take them out directly they are tender.
Cut up two or three onions, and fry them a nice brown in some fat or dripping; add them to a quart of greasy stock (see No. 10, stock No. 4); cut up a couple of small cabbages, or one large one, into small pieces, as well as a few sticks of celery, and a small carrot and turnip, and boil all together by throwing them into the boiling stock. Take the stock off the boil as soon as it once more boils up, and let the vegetables simmer till they are tender, when the soup will be done. Some fried bread makes a nice accompaniment.
One pound of butter, one pound of sugar, eight eggs, and a little salt. Rub some of the sugar on the rind of an orange or lemon. Beat the butter to a cream (see No. 27); then add the sugar pounded, the flour, and the eggs gradually, and a pinch of salt. When it is all thoroughly mixed, pour it into a well-buttered mould, or, still better, into a hoop lined with well-buttered paper, and bake. (See No 4).
A variety of cakes may be made by adding to the above - currants, stoned raisins, almonds, candied peel, preserved cherries, pistachio-kernels, etc.
If you wish to have the cake very good and rich, a wineglassful of brandy can be added to the above quantity.
Sponge cake is made like pound cake, only with half the quantity of flour, and no butter, and the eggs are broken, separating the whites from the yolks. (No. 15.) Mix the yolks in with the sugar, flour, etc., and beat the whites to a stiff froth by themselves; then mix the froth to the rest of the mixture as lightly as possible, and bake as before. Sponge cake is of course much lighter, and allowance must be made in baking for its swelling. The mould, therefore, should not be nearly filled. This requires a very brisk oven. (See No. 4).
Calf's feet are best prepared at the butchers'. They require scalding and very careful cleaning. They are nice plain-boiled, with parsley and butter. They will make good jelly and good soup. Perhaps the nicest way is to have them stewed. Put, say, two feet, on to boil with half an onion in some water. They must stew gently for a long time, till they are perfectly tender, and the meat, so to speak, will melt in the mouth. The stewing will take several hours. Then take out the feet, and cut all the flesh from the bones. Put back the bones, and boil the stock briskly till it is reduced to half a pint, or even less. (No. 26.) Strain it off, and thicken it with two eggs well beaten up (see No. 14); add a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little pepper and salt, and a glass of white wine, not sweet, or the juice of half a lemon. Serve the soft meat in this sauce, which must not boil or it will curdle. Add the wine or lemon-juice the last thing of all.
 
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