The best mock-turtle soup is made from calf's head, and can be made either thick or clear. Mock-turtle soup is so far the nicest mode of cooking calf's head that I will give directions for making the soup from the head direct, and not from the remains of calf's head cooked before some other way, though the same-directions will show how the latter can be done. To make clear mock-turtle, proceed as follows: -

Proceed in every respect to make stock No. 1. (See No. 10.) Get half a calf's head; remove the tongue and brains (these will make a nice entree); soak the head, and remove all blood-stains; wash carefully where the brains have been. Place the half calf's head in the saucepan, or stock-pot, with the knuckle of veal and stock, and let it simmer very gently for a couple of hours. Next, take out the calf's head; cut off all the meat from the bones; cut the flesh into neat pieces about two inches square, and put them by on a dish, keeping the pieces flat by placing another dish on the top of them. Pour any juice or gravy that has run out back into the stock-pot. When the stock is finished, strain it, and, if not bright, clear it. (See No. 18.) The extract of meat had better be added after the stock is cleared. As half a calf's head should make three quarts of soup, all the ingredients in making the stock should be doubled, including the veal. Next, place in a small stewpan two good table-spoonfuls of mixed sweet herbs (see Herbs, Sweet), one, if possible, of sweet Basil (Basil is sold, dried, in sixpenny bottles), and a teaspoonful of pennyroyal. This last is not essential, but is an improvement. Pour about half a pint of the clear stock on this, and let it boil gently for some time, keeping the lid close down. After it has boiled for twenty minutes, remove the stewpan from the fire, and let these herbs get nearly cold; then strain them through a gravy-strainer, pressing the herbs with a spoon to extract as much flavour as possible. Next, place the soup in a large saucepan on the fire, and put in the meat, which is probably tender; if not, it must simmer in the soup till it is. Flavour the soup with cayenne pepper, ordinary pepper, and salt. Add the juice of the herbs gradually, till you get the right flavour. (These herbs vary so much in strength, according to the time they have been picked, that exact quantities cannot be given.) Probably the whole of what [ have mentioned will have to be added, Next, add half a pint of golden sherry, and the juice of half a lemon. Have ready a few egg-balls, in which a little finely-chopped parsley is mixed with the eggs, which have been set in boiling water. Throw these into the soup, and serve. (See Egg-balls.) Three quarts of mock-turtle will require a brimming dessertspoonful of extract of meat, or even more. If the herbs are stale, more must be added in making the herb-juice. The bones can be put on for making Stock No. 3.

Thick Mock-Turtle Soup

Proceed exactly as in making clear mock-turtle soup, only substitute No. 3 Stock for No. 1 - i.e., bones instead of knuckle of veal. (See No. 10.) Of course you need not clear the soup. After cutting the meat off the head, put back the bones of the calf's head into the stock-pot. Make the herb-juice as before, adding, if anything, rather more herbs. Thicken with brown thickening (see No. 12), and carefully skim off the grease. This requires patience. (See Stock No. 4, No. 10.) Add the same quantities of extract of meat, sherry, eggballs, etc. The amount of thickening required will be considerable. This soup is always best made the day before. Half a calf's head will make three quarts of soup.

Mock-Turtle Soup From Pig's Head

Proceed exactly as in making thick mock-turtle soup from calf's head. The difficulty is to get rid of the fat. This soup will always have a slightly greasy taste, hut is still very excellent. It is only suitable in winter. To get rid of the fat, let it simmer gently by the fire. Throw in occasionally a little cold water. This will send the fat to the surface. Skim it, and let it boil away. (See Stock, No. 4. No. 10.) Then throw in some more cold water, etc. In winter-time, this gives but little trouble, Make it a day or two before it is wanted. A whole pig's head will make as much as half a calf's head. Less wine may be added, but not less herbs. No egg-balls are necessary.