This section is from the book "Choice Dishes At Small Cost", by A. G. Payne. See also: Larousse Gastronomique.
Two ounces of gelatine, half a pint of water, two ounces of sugar. Dissolve the gelatine by boiling, strain it, and add rather more than a pint of port wine. Test the jelly as to stiffness, and add port till the jelly will only just set. As this need not be poured into a mould you can afford to have it almost melting away, which renders it so much more appetising. "When you dissolve two ounces in only half a pint you cannot help losing some in straining: consequently, you will not be able to set much more than a pint of wine.
Take any fresh, ripe fruit, such as red currants, black currants, gooseberries, grapes. Place the fruit in a jar, and place the jar in a saucepan of boiling water and boil this away till the fruit yields up its juice. Strain the juice through a jelly-bag, but do not squeeze the fruit. Dissolve a pound of lump sugar in every pint of juice, and boil till it sets. Test this by putting a teaspoonful into a cold saucer. The jelly, of course, derives its name from the fruit used.
Apples may be treated in an exactly similar manner. Do not squeeze the apples. The apples must be simmered in a little water, and the juice of two lemons added to each pint of juice as well as the pound of sugar.
Jelly-bags are much the strongest and best when made at home. The strong flannel used for ironing-blankets is the best for this purpose, and it should be made of a half-square, and sewn at the side with a double seam, so as to be wide at the top, and pointed at the bottom. The top may be hemmed, and three tape loops sewn to it, by which the bag may be suspended when in use. A jelly-bag should always be wrung dry out of hot water before the liquid is poured into it.
This fish is very nice boiled and served with oiled butter (see Butter, Oiled). "When small it is exceedingly good, wrapped up in oiled paper with butter, pepper and salt, and a dash of French white wine, and baked in the oven. This latter is a great delicacy.
Cut a carrot, a turnip, part of a head of celery, the white part of a leek, and one onion, into thin strips, and stew them in a little butter till they become slightly brown; add also a little powdered sugar - a teaspoonful; then strain off the butter, and throw the vegetables into some good No. 1 Stock. Add a little of the white part of a lettuce, cut fine shortly before you serve up the soup, and, if possible, a few fresh tarragon leaves.
Be careful to skim off the butter from the stock which will rise from the vegetables. Of course all of these vegetables are not absolutely essential, but where there is a garden, this will be found an admirable mixture.
Lamb chops should be grilled over rather a fierce fire. (See No. 5.) They require more time in proportion to size than mutton. They should be highly coloured outside, and not look red inside, like mutton chops.
The lamprey is like a very tough eel. It can be cooked like eel (see Eels), only it requires more cooking. Those who have eaten lampreys will quite understand Henry the First's fatal attack of indigestion.
 
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