This section is from the book "Choice Dishes At Small Cost", by A. G. Payne. See also: Larousse Gastronomique.
Slices of salmon cut an inch thick, and grilled in oiled paper (see Salmon, Grilled), are sometimes called salmon cutlets. Also salmon can be cut into little thin slices, the size of an ordinary cutlet, and these slices should be soaked for some hours in good olive oil, in which is mixed some pepper and salt and parsley. The slices are then taken out, and grilled quickly over a fierce fire a nice bright brown colour on each side.
The best salmon cutlets, both for taste, economy, and appearance, can be made out of the remains of cold boiled salmon as follows: Pound the meat in a mortar, or mix it up in a basin; add to each pound of pounded meat a piece of onion the size of the top of the thumb down to the nail, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a saltspoonful of pepper, a tea-spoonful of anchovy sauce. The onion and parsley must be chopped very fine. Add sufficient butter to moisten it, and mix very thoroughly, and add one egg beaten up. Mould this mixture into little cutlets rather bigger than an oval picnic biscuit; flour them to make them dry. Egg-and-bread-crumb them (see No. 20). Fry them a nice golden brown in some very hot fat (see No. 6), and serve with fried parsley.
It is best to make these cutlets an hour before they are fried, as the bread crumbs then dry a little, and brown more quickly. As the salmon is already cooked, the quicker they are browned the better.
A very great improvement both in flavour and appearance to the above, is to add a little lobster butter (see Lobster Butter), say, a teaspoonful. It must be thoroughly mixed. A small bare bone an inch and a half long, cut from the end of neck of lamb or mutton, can be stuck into each cutlet to represent the bone, and a little paper frill tied round it, or a little piece of wood will do. This makes a very pretty-looking dish.
Excellent salmon cutlets can be made this way from tinned salmon, especially if lobster butter is obtainable. This makes a very elegant and yet very cheap dish. Tinned salmon as a rule will not require any butter at all: it is rich and oily.
 
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