Quand La Cornemuse Est Pleine On En Chante Mieux.

IT may seem superfluous, if not presumptuous, to offer to the public a book on Cookery, when there are already so many extant, and of which several are the works of really great "Artists;" but this little volume presents itself without any pretension, as being merely a collection of receipts, many of which the Compiler believes to be original, and all of which she knows to be good. And if the jaded appetite of one sick person is stimulated, or one healthy appetite gratified, her object will be attained, and any trouble she may have had in the compilation of the book amply rewarded. It is often very difficult to prevail upon cooks to follow the directions of a receipt; they think they know as well, or better, and if they condescend to employ the ingredients, pay no attention to the instructions for their proportion, or admixture, or the time they may take in cooking, in order to bring them to the right point, as the French say, "cuit au point:" the result is probably a nasty mess, in no way resembling what was originally intended. For this it is difficult to find a remedy; but there is one when practicable - i.e. make it yourself; and the writer hopes that the directions given are sufficiently explicit to enable the veriest tyro to do this without fear of failure, and consequent disappointment.

A near relation of the Compiler's, and one who thoroughly understood and enjoyed good living, and from whom she acquired many receipts and much culinary lore, once said to her, - "Original English, or what is called plain cooking, is the worst, and the most ignorant, and the most extravagant, in the known world!" There is no doubt considerable truth in this; but she is not sure that the word plain should not be omitted, and questions much if there is or ever was original English cookery. The observation would then resolve itself into - "English cookery is the worst," etc. etc.; and this she thinks few will be inclined to dispute. What can be more unpalatable than the horrible attempts at entrees, dignified with some high-sounding French name, made by the general run of English cooks ? the sodden pieces of meat, soaking in a mess of flour and butter, commonly called roux, which, with the addition of a little melted glaze, forms the English cook's universal idea of a sauce, and which they liberally and indiscriminately bestow on fish, flesh, and fowl - proving, indeed, most painfully, how very little there is in a name; a theory, by the way, which the writer has often felt inclined to dispute.

Now, by what is called plain cooking, per se, she understands Roasting, Broiling, Baking, and Boiling; and if these are well done, nobody can justly complain of having a bad dinner. How much rather would not any one prefer a well-broiled mutton-chop - brown, tender, and succulent - tempting you, by its appearance, to eat, even as much as that of the other deterred you from the attempt! So with a joint of well-roasted beef, or mutton, and well boiled or baked potatoes; if not appetising, they at least satisfy your hunger without nauseating, and you cannot say you have dined badly, though your dinner has not been very recherche. But there are occasions when even a good appetite palls, upon the too frequent repetition of such heavy viands, and when that of the delicate invalid will turn with loathing from such solid, though wholesome food. It is then, the writer hopes, reference will be made to this little volume of "Dainty Dishes," and that the good appetite may be gratified, and the delicate one renovated.

Derneburg, April 10, 1866.