This section is from the book "Every-Day Dishes And Every-Day Work", by E. E. Kellogg. Also available from Amazon: Larousse Gastronomique.
For the cooking of grains a double boiler or steam-cooker is desirable. If one possesses neither of these, a substitute for a double boiler may be improvised from two earthen crocks, one enough smaller so that it can be placed within the other and leave a space around it for water. It may then be used upon the stove or within the oven. A granite-ware basin placed within an ordinary steamer over a kettle of boiling water also answers the purpose very well. . Grains may be cooked on the stove in an ordinary kettle, but the difficulties to be encountered, in order to prolong the cooking sufficiently and at the same time prevent burning, make it, however, the least desirable utensil for this purpose.
All grains should be carefully looked over before being put to cook.
The supply of grains should be stored in a perfectly dry place, and protected from air and moisture, or they are apt to have a musty flavor when cooked.
The following points should be observed in the cooking of grains: -
1. Measure both liquid and grain accurately with the same dish, or with two of equal size.
2. Have the water boiling when the grain is introduced, but do not allow it to boil for a long time previously, until it is considerably evaporated, as that will change the proportion of water and grain sufficiently to alter the consistency of the grain when cooked.
3. Introduce the grain slowly, so as not to stop the boiling of the water, and let it boil rapidly until the grain ceases sinking to the bottom, and the whole becomes thickened. If the grain is cooked in a double boiler, this first boiling should be done with the inner dish directly over the fire, and when the mixture has thickened, the dish containing it should at once be placed in the outer boiler, the water in which should be boiling. It will then require no further care during the entire cooking, save to keep the outer boiler filled and the water boiling.
If the grain is to be cooked in a steam-cooker, as soon as thickened, it may be turned into a china or an earthen dish suitable for use on the table, and placed at once in the steamer to complete the cooking. If an ordinary kettle is used, as soon as the mush is thickened, it is well to place it upon an iron ring or brick on some part of the range where it will just simmer, for the remainder of the cooking.
4. Stir the fine grains constantly until thickened, but not at all afterward.
5. Cook continuously. If it be necessary to replenish the water in the outer boiler at any time, let it be done with water at boiling temperature.
6. If salt is to be used, put it into the water before the grain is introduced.
7. Most important of all, cook completely. The almost universal water-brash in Scotland, and much of the indigestion in this country, are due to the use of imperfectly cooked grains.
 
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