In a consideration of the subject of entrees, the first question to be asked is, what is an entree? There are certain characteristics that pertain to an entree, and these we will consider later on; but first of all we need to know something of the composition of a menu, or bill of fare, in which an entree would be presented.

A proper menu is not a haphazard collection of articles of food. In selecting the various dishes that are to be combined in a dinner, especially in a dinner of ceremony, aesthetical as well as physiological conditions are to be kept in mind; also variety in the articles of food and in the shape, color, texture and flavor of the dishes is sought for; and at the same time the dishes as a whole advance in importance from the simple appetizers to the grand climax of the roast, and then they gradually decline to the clear black coffee, which is the fitting close of the meal.

Thudichum says, "the menus of our forefathers (English) consisted of three courses: soup and fish, the first; entrees and joints, the second; game and sweets, the third; cheese and dessert (fruit, nuts, etc.) were called by some a fourth course, and by some simply an appendix to the third." To-day this cannot be considered a logical grouping of these eight varieties of dishes. At the period of the renaissance each dish was served by itself and considered a course; and there were from twelve to sixty dishes, or courses, in a dinner. Here we have the other extreme, and the term "courses " has no real meaning. A glance at the style of table service at the time of our forefathers gives us the key to their division into three courses. Food was served from the table. While the soup was being eaten there was a joint of meat or fish at the head of the table, another at the foot of the table, and usually one or more at each side. All these constituted the first "course." Thus the term "course," then, was in conformity to our idea of the term as used in the present day: that is, in the term "course," as applied to a dinner menu, are included all the dishes that appear upon the table together. But in the service of to-day nothing appears upon the table except such things as belong to the course being served or are eaten together. With soup - croutons, bread sticks, etc., excepted - nothing would appear on the table save such relishes as celery, radishes, olives and salted nuts, which may be eaten with any course up to the sweets.

While the number of dishes in a course has been much cut down, and other changes that tend to the simplification of menus are coming into vogue, the general make up of menus, to-day, is much the same as it was two hundred years ago. Soup follows the hors d'oeuvres, then comes the course called Remove in English, releve in French, from the fact that it removes the soup from the table. Formerly, this course comprised fish of several kinds, usually whole or in a large section, boiled or baked or both; the "bouilli " or beef from which the soup (pot-au-feu) was made; a boiled chicken or turkey; lamb or mutton, ribs or fillet of beef, roasted; potatoes, etc. This course is followed by several dishes, usually in individual portions (but never such as call for much carving), made of choice materials and accompanied by fine sauces; each dish is served in a course by itself. These are entrees.

Formerly, in a fine dinner an entree of fish, one of chicken, one of beef, one of vegetables, one including pastry and one including truffles, served in the order of their delicacy, were thought to be essential. Of course the truffles and the pastry were often combined with the fish or the chicken. After entrees comes the course called rots in French, roast in English. This dish is of game or fowl or ham, and is usually accompanied by a salad. Pate-de-foie-gras in aspic or a choice vegetable (as asparagus or cauliflower) with a rich sauce follows the roast. With these or other entrees ends the first "service."

The second service, "sweets," includes Charlotte Russe, wine jellies, light pastry, souffles, ices, fruits, nuts, bonbons (sometimes cheese and crackers) and coffee. These are usually served in two courses (three, coffee, being considered a course), if a hot dish be included in the list. The menu then stands to-day as so long ago:

Hors d'oeuvre Soup Remove

Entrees

Roast

Entrees

Sweets

Coffee

But the high cost of food products and, also, of service have materially changed the dishes presented in the courses of a dinner, and have brought entrees into more prominence. Whereas formerly, entrees appeared only after, or in conjunction with, the two main courses of the dinner, they now often supplant one or the other of these courses and sometimes, even in formal luncheons, replace them both. In a dinner of considerable pretension an entree of fish is not infrequently the sole representative of the course called "remove."

Now we are ready to notice something of the characteristics of an entree, and in the modern menu these characteristics are somewhat changed. Up to within the last ten years - perhaps even a shorter time - an entree or side dish was thought of principally as a dish served between or in conjunction with the main courses of the dinner; but now that an entree may supplant these main courses this definition is less complete than formerly.

Escoffier considers that the classification of a dish as an entree depends largely on the question of bulk, and that the mode of preparation, which is usually, in case of solid meat, grilling, poaching or sauteing, is entirely owing to this fact of lack of bulk; as, for instance, a whole fillet of beef, or a comparatively large piece from a fillet, could be roasted or braised without broth (basted with butter) and served as a remove or roast; while the same fillet, cut in slices for individual service, must be grilled or sauted and served as an entree. Be this as it may, with but few exceptions entrees are cooked by other modes than roasting.

Lack of bulk, then, is one of the principal characteristics of an entree, and while the manner of cooking has a bearing on the subject it does not form a line of demarcation. A roasted capon would not be an entree, while roasted birds might serve as either roast or entree, according to the place allotted them in the menu and the dishes served before and after.

Skilful cooking is expected in an entree, not only in the sauce - for most entrees are accompanied by a sauce - but also in the body of the dish itself. Being served alone it challenges the attention and any lack of seasoning or flavoring, or any remissness in timing the cooking so that succulence is lost, is apparent at once and is a bid for disapproval.

The greater number of Entrées are prepared from proteid substances, as eggs, fish of all kinds, fowl, lamb, veal, game and choice portions of beef, but choice fresh vegetables, as mushrooms, cauliflower, tomatoes and asparagus, and some fruits - notably in fritters - are also used.

When two entrees are served, one immediately after the other, the most delicate should be served first; if one consists of solid pieces of meat or fish, the basis of the other should be in the form of a puree or chopped ingredient. If one is grilled, the other should be fried or poached; nor should the same sauce appear twice; variety in all details should be sought.