This utensil is a most useful one, and of almost universal use abroad, where few save chefs have kitchen maids; though in England it is looked on as a luxury only required in very large kitchens. This, however, is a great mistake. Where a cook is single-handed it is all but impossible to get ready everything required at the moment of use. So various things such as sauces, garnishes, Ac., may be kept warm, and handy in this vessel, and indeed are so kept abroad, as shown in the illustration copied from a real pot in use (Fig. 16). Various substitutes for this pan have been introduced (on account of its large cost in this country), of which probably the best known is the "gourmet-boiler," but with a little management the cost need not be in the least prohibitive. The only things required are, a shallow kettle (such as most ironmongers sell as fish fryers), and a few small block tin saucepans, to fit in it. Of course where expense is no object copper pans, etc., are nicest, but the above homely arrangement works admirably.

In putting sauces in this pan, pour a spoonful of liquid very gently over the surface of each, as this prevents the formation of a skin, which it is not easy to dissolve in a hurry when wanted; using brown stock for dark and milk for white sauces.