This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
Pare and shorter the rib bones above the flaps; cut these off straight and with the tip of a knife, separate the rings of the spinal bones at equal distances apart; tie it firmly and lay it on a spit to cook for one hour to one hour and a quarter according to its size; baste frequently while cooking, untie, salt, brown and glaze the meat. Dress and garnish around with duchess potatoes ( No. 2785) and the ends with spinach rissoles prepared as explained (No. 161), filling them with spinach ( No. 2820). A separate half-glaze sauce (No. 413) is to be served at the same lime.
Braise a saddle exactly as explained for the saddle with glazed roots (No. 1649). Half an hour before serving, drain and cover the surface with a lamb forcemeat (No. 92), and raw line herbs that have been mingled with some allemande sauce (No. 407). Finish cooking in a moderate oven and when done, glaze and dress the meat on an oval dish, garnishing around with carrots and green peas sauted together.
Have a good saddle of mutton, hang it in a cool place for eight days to have it tender; pare the two fillets, suppress all the fat and skin adhering to the meat so as to be able to lard it with larding pork, then roll the flanks under. Tie up the saddle, lay it in an English cradle spit (Fig. 344), after it has been wrapped in a buttered paper, and let roast in front of a moderate fire for an hour and a quarter, basting it frequently during the time; remove the paper to let attain a good color, then untie it on a baking pan, detach the two fillets, leaving on some of the fat; cut them up slanting.and replace them from whence they were taken. In the meantime prepare a Piedmontese risot (No. 739), and just when ready to serve dress the saddle on a releve dish with the risot; besprinkle over with a few handfuls of chopped white Piedmontese truffles, glaze it over and send to the table accompanied by a sauce-boat of thickened gravy (No. 405).
Prepare and braise a saddle the same as for the one with glazed roots (No. 1649), half an hour before serving, glaze the surface of the meat, strain the stock and reduce with Madeira sauce (No. 492). Dress the saddle on a long dish with a macedoine garnishing (No. 680) around it alternating the colors. Pour a little of the sauce under the saddle; glaze it properly and serve the remainder of the sauce-boat apart.
The saddle is the whole loin and first rib; cut off the two legs below the tail in a round-shape, directing the knife toward the flanks (Fig 340). Carefully remove the fat both on the top and the under toward the loin end, and part of the kidney fat. Roll the flanks of the meat over on themselves, make incisions in the fat on the top of the saddle, more or lessdeep according to its thickness, and keep the saddle in position with four or five rounds of string. Place the saddle on the spit, hold it in place with skewers run through the flanks of the meat and the holes in the spilt;thrust a fork into the meat of the sirloin near the bone, and place on the top a long skewer, tying it firmly at the two ends. Cover the meat with several sheets of buttered paper, tie them on. and one hour and a quarter before serving roast the saddle before a good, clear and well regulated fire. Fifteen minutes before serving, unwrap, glaze over and let it acquire a fine color: dress it on a very hot long dish, pour over some clear gravy (No. 404), and serve at the same time a sauce-boatful of clear gravy (No. 404), and half-glaze sauce (No. 413), half of each.

Fig. 343.

Fig. 344.
 
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