This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
Prepare seven ounces of flour, four ounces of butter, and four ounces of grated cheese, four tablespoonfuls of raw cream, two egg-yolks, a dash of cayenne, and a grain of salt. First rub well between the two hands, the butter and flour, so as to have them sandy; then lay this in a ring on the table, and into the center pour the cream, egg-yolks, cheese, pepper, and salt; make the dough using for this purpose the blade of a knife so as not to heat the paste, and when well mingled, roll it out into a square piece the thickness of one-eighth of an inch. Cut this into bands two and three-quarter inches wide, and cut these again across into ribbons as wide as their thickness; roll them with the hands on the floured table to give each one a round shape, then range them at once on to a buttered baking sheet, clip off their ends together so as to have them all of equal length, and egg the surfaces. Cook these straws for seven or eight minutes in a slack oven, then take them out and detach them from the sheet with the blade of a knife, and return them at once to the oven to finish cooking, a few minutes being sufficient for this purpose.
Serve them on folded napkins.
Butter twelve hollow tartlet molds; fill them to almost their height with a cheese souffle preparation (No. 2984) not too light. Range these molds in a sautoire with a little hot water, and let them poach in a slack oven for sixteen to eighteen minutes without allowing the water to boil. After removing them from the oven, unmold on a deep buttered silver dish; dredge over some grated parmesan cheese in such a way that the tops of all the small loaves are well covered; a quarter of an hour before serving, pour over some good raw cream so that they float in the liquid to about half their height, then place them in a moderate oven to let them absorb the cream, souffleing them slightly and coloring them at the same time. Serve the instant they leave the oven.
Cut off all the rind from the cheese, leaving no black part on whatever; grate by rubbing the cheese against a sufficiently coarse grater (Fig. 177) until it is all consumed; keep in a cool but not too damp place.