This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
As a bustard is nearly always tough, it is necessary to hang it up for several days. Pick, singe, draw and clean it well; cut off the pinions, neck and drumsticks; detach the legs from the body as well as the breasts, and lard all these meats with large shreds of raw ham, then season; lay them in a vessel with a pint of vinegar and as much water, let macerate for twenty-four hours. Cover the bottom and sides of a large stone stock pot with thin slices of fat pork, range in the bottom a few small carrots and turnips in the shape of three-fourth inch balls, a few onions, a bunch of aromatic herbs and two boned and blanched calf's feet, dredge over whole peppers and cloves then put in the carcass, legs and breast pieces after draining them from their marinade. Moisten to half the height of the meats with white wine, cover over with bards of fat pork, and reduce the liquid for a few moments. Close the vessel hermetically with a piece of paper and a common plate half filled with water and let it cook very slowly in the oven for six to seven hours, according to its tenderness; remove carefully and dress on a large dish with the calf's feet and vegetables; skim the fat from the strained liquid and strain it again over the meat.
A whole goose can either be served as a releveor as a roast; the slices, legs and giblets as an entree. A goose is usually served at unceremonious dinners. Draw and singe a goose, clean it well and truss it as for an entree (No. 178); fill the inside with a sausage forcemeat (No. 68) into which mix a handful of bread-crumbs, several eggs and cooked fine herbs (No. 385); season highly. Line a braziere with bards of fat pork, cut up carrots and onions and a bunch of parsley garnished with chervil; lay the goose on top of these, surround it with bits of veal and moisten with Madeira wine, broth and white wine to half its height; boil, skim and simmer for three to four hours until properly cooked. Strain the stock, remove all its fat and reduce to half, then pour it into some brown sauce (No. 414) in the act of being reduced, adding more of the Madeira. Dress the goose and garnish around with clusters of small braised and glazed onions, blanched carrots cooked in stock (No. 194a), braised chestnuts fallen to a glaze, and mushroom heads cooked, turned and channeled (No. 118); cover over with a part of the sauce and serve the remainder in a sauce-boat.
Prepare the same as for the chipolata (No. 1945) and after the stock has been strained. skimmed and reduced to a half-glaze, add to it the juice of one orange, some currant jelly and finely shredded cooked orange peel, pour a part of this sauce over the goose, and garnish around with sour apple tartlets (No. 8327); serve the rest of the sauce separately.
Pick out a line goose, draw, singe and clean it thoroughly, then truss it for roasting. Boil fifty peeled chestnuts in some Stock (No. 194a) with a few shredded celery stalks, adding only sufficient of the moisture just to allow them to cook, and when done, drain. Put two pounds of pork forcemeat in a sautoir over a brisk fire, cook, stir occasionally and season with salt, mignonette, nutmeg, chopped parsley, a handful of bread-crumbs and two whole eggs, add the chestnuts and use this dressing to fill the insides of the goose, wrap it up in several sheets of buttered paper and roast it for two and a half hours, basting it over frequently. Twenty-five minutes before serving, unwrap the goose and return it to the spit in order to have it acquire a fine color, dress and serve with Zuchette sauce (No. 564). Garnish around the goose with croustades filled with gooseberries preparing them in the following way: Have two pounds of gooseberries, cut off the tops and stalks, blanch for two minutes, then drain.
Cook in a saucepan a quarter of a pound of sugar to small crack, add the gooseberries, toss them gently, then cool off, stir in as much whipped cream as there are gooseberries, having it unsweetened and well drained; serve a sauce-boat of gravy (No. 404) at the same time.
 
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