This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
For cutting up a venison saddle see Fig. 322. Pare a saddle of venison, removing the skin covering the sirloin; lard it with lardons (No. 2. Fig. 52) across the grain of the meat and marinate for twelve hours in cold cooked marinade (No. 114). Put it in a baking pan with bards of fat pork on top and the marinade; pour butter over and when half cooked baste with more butter and besprinkle with flour. Set the parings into a sautoir with a stalk of celery, onions containing cloves and a bunch of parsley garnished with garlic, thyme and bay leaf; moisten with red wine and stock (No. l!)4a). boil and simmer for one hour, then thicken lightly with a little kneaded butter ( No. 579); remove the saddle from the- roasting pan and pour in some gravy (No. 404) to detach the glaze, then add it to the sauce and strain the whole through a tammy, skim off the fat and place a third of the sauce on a dish, dressing the saddle on top; serve the remainder separately in a sauce-boat and some currant jelly on a plate.
Pare and marinate a saddle the same as for a l'Athalin (No. 2186). One hour before dinner drain and roast it in the oven, and when done skim off the fat and put in half a pint of the marinade and as much raw cream; reduce the same, cut some medium-sized apples in quarters, range them in a liberally buttered sautoir. bestrew with a little powdered sugar and [tour butter over, place in the oven, and when cooked dress the saddle, glaze and pour over a little gravy (No. 404); range the tipples on each side and serve the sauce separately.
Pare, lard and roast a saddle of venison; as soon as it is done cut off the tenderloin and replace it without deforming the meat, then pour over a little gravy (No. 404) and garnish around with macaroni croquettes, glazed turnips, fried Jerusalem artichokes, boiled white beans and boiled potato balls three-quarters of an inch in size; serve currant jelly apart, also a poivrade sat..... (No. 522) having a little Worcestershire added and the whole stirred with some maitre d'hotel butter (No. 581), when ready to serve.
Prepare and roast the saddle the same as the one with currant jelly (No. 2193); detach the glaze from the pan with a little port wine, a small quantity of espagnole sauce (No. 414), and into it put as much currant jelly, then strain through a fine sieve. Lay the meat on a long dish, pour some good gravy (No. 404) over and surround with tartlets of sour apple marmalade covered with puff paste parings (No. 146); serve the sauce apart.
Lard the saddle the same as explained for saddle with currant sauce (No. 2193), put it in a dish, the minion fillet side uppermost and the larded side underneath, season with mignonette, cloves, garlic, vinegar, onions, thyme, bay leaf and lemon juice; after it has been steeping for six hours, remove and roast it in the oven or on a spit and dress on a hot oval dish; serve an aigrelette sauce (No. 544) separately.