This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
Prepare and cook the sweetbreads precisely the same as for larded and glazed (No. 1575); dress in a circle on round crusts of bread two and a half inches in diameter by one cpuarter of an inch in thickness, and fried in butter; lay on top of every sweetbread a crown-shaped quenelle two inches in diameter and streaked with truffles, on this set a crawfish; in the center pour a garnishing composed of a salpicon of square pieces of mushroom, artichoke bottoms, truffles, and foies-gras all cut the same size and mixed with Madeira sauce (No. 492); serve separately some of the same sauce.
Blanch six medium size unlarded sweetbreads; lay them in a sautoir garnished with slices of fat pork, minced carrots and onions, thyme, bay leaf and whole peppers: moisten to three-quarters of their height with beef stock (No. 194a), and after it comes to a boil finish cooking in a moderate oven, when done, remove and put them under a press in oval tin rings: when cold unmold them and cut them crosswise through the center. Cover one side of each sweetbread with cooked fine herbs (No. 385), laying it on a quarter of an inch thick; set the other half belonging to it on top and remove all the superfluous preparation oozing from the sides. Beat up well one-quarter of a pound of melted butter with six egg-yolks, dip the sweetbreads into this, then roll them in freshly grated bread-crumbs; bread-crumb them twice before laying them on a baking tin, pour a little butter over and cook them in a moderate oven; serve a brown English sauce separately.
Reduce espagnole sauce (No. 414) with meat-glaze (No. 402) adding just before serving some Worcestershire sauce, butter, lemon juice and fine herbs.
Soak and blanch a sufficient quantity of sweetbreads; suppress the windpipes and fat, and cut them in two across through their thickness, then lay them in a tureen with finely shredded chives and shallots, salt, pepper, allspice, lemon juice and a little oil; keep them in a cool place for one hour turning them over occasionally, then drain them on a cloth carefully removing every vestige of herbs; dip the pieces into a frying paste (No. 137) not having it too thick, and fry them slowly until they are cooked and have acquired a fine color, then drain and dress on folded napkins, garnish the top with fried parsley. Serve with a cream sauce (No. 454) in a sauce-boat.
Split some blanched, cold and pressed sweetbreads in two through their thickness; saute them in butter seasoning with salt and pepper. Chop up one small onion and one shallot, lay them in a saucepan with melted fat pork to fry colorless, adding six ounces of chopped fresh mushrooms; reduce the moisture of these, season, and add six ounces of cooked ham cut in small one-eighth inch dice; heat the whole well, then add chopped parsley. Cut heart-shaped pieces from a sheet of paper, nine inches long by five wide; oil and lay them on the table; cover one side with thin slices of fat pork or cooked ham, lay a little of the preparation on top, then a piece of sweetbread, and finish with another layer of the preparation; fold the paper three-quarters around and pour a little Madeira sauce (No. 493) through the opening and finish folding SO as to enclose all hermetically; range these "papillotes" in the serving-dish, place it in the oven, basting over carefully with a little sweet oil. They should be browned, but not blackened and swollen to double their original size.