This section is from the book "The Epicurean", by Charles Ranhofer. Also available from Amazon: The Epicurean, a Complete Treatise of Analytical and Practical Studies on the Culinary Art.
Sweetbread is a glandulous substance found below the calf's throat and is considered a most delicate morsel. Separate the throat sweetbreads from the hearts; the throat part is the largest of the two, the heart is whiter, of a round shape and more delicate and tender than the throat, place them in cold water to disgorge for several hours changing it each hour so as to have them very white; lay them in a saucepan with an abundant supply of cold water, set it on the fire and when the sweetbreads are firm to the touch or poached, or more properly speaking parboiled, then refresh and suppress all the wind-pipes, fibers and fatty parts, afterward lay them under a very light weight. This blanching is for the purpose of hardening the sweetbreads so as to be able to lard them more easily. Blanched sweetbreads are used for sauteing by cutting them in two through their thickness. For brochettes they are cut in slices and for garnishing in the shape of salpicon.
Prepare and cook the sweetbreads as for those larded and glazed with gravy ( No. 1575). Have some round two inch diameter croutons of tongue, and some of forcemeat the same size and shape. Make a low croustade of foundation paste (No. 135), fasten it to the center of a round dish and dress in a circle around it, alternate croutons of the tongue and forcemeat; fill the croustade with Neapolitan paillettes and dress the glazed sweetbreads on top. A half-glaze sauce (No. 413) to be served separately.
A kind of small macaroni three-thirty-seconds of an inch in diameter without any hole in the center.
Prepare and cook the sweetbreads exactly as for a la Montebello (No. 1560). prepare a salpicon with sweetbreads cut in square pieces, also some truffles and mushrooms, all cut in three-sixteenths inch squares, lay these in an allemande sauce (No. 407). and let get cold. Cover one side of each sweetbread with this preparation, giving it a dome-shape, and lay over the salpicon a cream forcemeat (No. 75), dredging chopped truffles over all; besprinkle with butter and set them into a slack oven to heal without browning. A brown Madeira sauce (No. 492) is to be served at the same time, but separately.
Stud and braise the sweetbreads the same as for No. 1554. dress them on small croutons of fores-gras forcemeat (No. 78) dipped in eggs and fried in butter; in the center lay some cock's-combs and kidneys and cover the whole with a Colbert sauce ( No. 451) made with the braise stock from the sweetbreads and reduced to the consistency of a half-glaze.
Soak well and blanch six medium sized sweetbreads; stud them each in seven places with truffles and wrap them up in a thin slice of fat pork, tie it on securely, then lay them in a sautoir lined with more slices of pork, minced carrots and onions, and a garnished bunch of parsley. Moisten with one pint of beef-stock (No. 194a), let it fall to a glaze, and then add a quart more stock; continue the cooking for half an hour longer. Reduce the stock and glaze the sweetbreads, then dress in the center of the dish, and lay around them in clusters or else in the center some cocks'-combs, kidneys, and mushrooms. Pour over the garnishing a well buttered veloute sauce (No. 415), and serve in a sauce-boat some of the same reduced with the stock passed through a tammy, and finish with a piece of butter. Have a trussed and glazed crawfish on top of each sweetbread. Serve separately a sauce-boat of veloute sauce reduced with the braise stock strained through a sieve and incorporate in a piece of fresh butter just when ready to serve.
 
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