This section is from the "The French Cook" book, by Louis Eustache. Also see Amazon: The French Cook.
This dish would find few admirers, as birds in croustade, and even hot-raised pies, are very seldom called for. The nobility of this country like to see what they are eating; they fear to meet with something they do not like in a hot raised pie, which they accordingly seldom touch. The reason of it is obvious, and justifies their aversion : the aforesaid hot pies being generally economical entrees, made of legs or such other parts of either fowl or game. The nobility, gentry, and epicures in general, never taste any part but the fillets. Larks in croustade must be done beforehand. Put the birds into croustades fried of a light brown, the inside part of which you take out with a cutter : into the vacuity put first a little farce, and the lark over it. Keep the birds hot till you serve up.
It is no easy matter to meet with a pheasant possessing that exquisite taste which is acquired only by long keeping. The damp of the climate prevents their being kept so long as they are in other countries. The hens in general are more delicate. The cocks shew their age by their spurs. They are only fit to be eaten when the blood runs from the bill, which is commonly six days or a week after they have been killed. You may then either roast, or make entrees of them. The flesh of a pheasant is white, tender, and has a good savour if you keep it long enough; if not, it has no more savour than a common fowl, or a hen.
Those articles in general, which after having been roasted, are to be put into a sauce, require to be under-done, and especially pheasants. After having trussed them nicely, spit them. They will be done in half an hour's time. If small, take the bird from the fire at the expiration of that time. When cold, flay and cut it, as for eating, and put the parings into the sauce a salmi. If you have two phea-sarits, you must not use the legs, but to give flavour; as the breast of a pheasant is generally very fleshy, cut each side in three pieces, and pare them of a nice shape, cut likewise some slices of bread of the same shape and size, and fry them of a nice brown; put the flesh into a stew-pan covered, to prevent it from drying, and keep the trimmings to put into the sauce as follows: cut four shalots, a small bit of lean ham, some parsley-roots, a small bit of carrot cut into dice, some thyme, bay-leaf, six cloves, mace, ten grains of allspice, and a small bit of butter; fry all this in a stew-pan till the ham has a good colour; if you have no brown sauce, put a spoonful of flour; moisten with two glasses of Madeira and a ladleful of gravy of veal; season with salt and pepper; put the trimmings to boil with this, and skim off all the fat; if it should taste a little bitter, correct with a very small bit of sugar. Keep this sauce thick enough to cover the meat; put it over the flesh through a tammy, and let it warm, but it must not boil. This dish, when well made, is most excellent: if you like to make it with truffles, put the trimmings of them to boil with the sauce; have some truffles cut of the size of a nutmeg, and put them separately to boil in clean sauce; when done, put the sauce of the truffles with the other, and put the truffles in the middle of the dish, when you send the dinner up.
The operation is the same as for all other croquettes of fowl, or game; it is only to be observed, that croquettes of game must be stronger than those of poultry. You must not forget to mix a little glaze of game, which makes the only difference. Serve up garnished with fried parsley.
Use the same method as for hachis of poultry, or of game. Garnish with poached eggs, but remember to put into it some of the glaze of game.
See No. 14, page 195, Souffles of Partridges. In general all entrees that are made of partridges, may likewise be made of pheasants; such as aux choux, a la Monglas, a la Barbarie, otherwise en petit deuil, a la Givry, a la Crime, etc. etc.
 
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