This section is from the book "The Illustrated London Cookery Book", by Frederick Bishop. See also: How to Cook Everything.
For making Burton or rich Welsh ales instead of boiling the wort two hours let it boil only one, but without ceasing for the whole time. Have ready six pounds of treacle which must be thrown into the copper, this adds to the strength of the malt, and gives great richness to the flavour of the ale; the liquor must be kept well stirred up the whole time and most from the bottom; but as this is not brewed for keeping, three quarters of a pound of hops to every bushel of malt will be sufficient. Before it is tapped, which may be done in three or four months, fine it as before with the hops, when it will be found to possess that rich flavour for which Burton and Welsh ales are so much liked. This has frequently been brewed in the early part of March, and drunk to perfection the latter end of the June following; all well brewed ales and beer are good and ripe at three or four months.
Should be made from the best white heavy sweet oat made into malt, the same as barley is. The Scotch oats are preferred, and the ale made from them are said to be of a soft healing quality and is of great repute in England, where it is not common. Though this ale requires a greater quantity of malt, it is brewed at a less price than others, as ten bushels will make a hogshead of fifty-four gallons rich and soft, as no table beer is taken from it. In four or six months it will be fit for use; it must be brewed, hopped, etc. in the same manner as Welsh ales; some persons who grow their own oats make this ale with a part oat malt and a part barley malt.
In choosing the malt, take care that it is not peat or straw dried, and procure it of a pale colour, for they are the best of all malts and more balsamic, also soft and smooth and highly agreeable to the taste; malt should not be ground too fine, but on the contrary, broken or made into a coarse meal. Good malt is known by a simple test, namely, by chewing it, for if well made it will be nearly as sweet as sugar, delightful to the smell, of a mellow flavour, round body, and thin skin.
When hops are purchased, let them be not packed too loose in the bags, for that does them no good. Be careful that all things belonging to the beer-house be never used for anything else, for if any grease or soap get in the pails or tubs, it prevents the beer working, take care the liquor-stands be quite steady, for if they rock they injure the beer, they should be made of oak, and they will last for years. Observe, never bottle beer, wine, or cider, but on a fine day, let the bottles be well seen to, use none but the best corks. Beer, cider, and perry, for home consumption, should stand in the bottles sis or eight hours before they are corked, cider and perry should have the corks wired and be packed in a bin with sand.
This is a beverage much drank in England at Christmas time; if properly made it is very agreeable, but if not skilfully done it is not at all pleasant to the palate. The following is an excellent receipt. One quart of ale, one quart of porter, mix together, and put in a saucepan upon the fire, where it is to remain until covered with a thick cream, but it must not boil. Add to half a pint of gin one quartern of rum and four eggs well beaten; beat up all well together, add moist sugar to taste. Take the mixed ale and beer off the fire, and pour the mixture of eggs and spirits backwards and forwards several times; now return it to the fire, keep it well stirred, but it must not boil or it will curdle; when it is just on the verge of a boil take it off, pour it into a jug, and then serve in glasses. If it should require any more sugar add it.
This is also a winter beverage, and is composed chiefly of gin or rum poured into beer, and made hot, sweetened with sugar and spiced with grated nutmeg.
Is made in a similar manner, save that a hot toast is served in it. This is the wassail drink.
 
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